Japan ease

Brocades and detailed prints inspired by the East are an effortless way to bring bring a bit of opulence to your winter wardrobe, writes DEIRDRE MCQUILLAN

An Asian theme as shown here is a peg on which to hang a number of affordable modern looks that reflect winter trends and shapes. It’s not just the kimono sleeves, Issey Miyake-style pleating or the cute cartoon T-shirts that draw inspiration from the East but also detailed prints and brocades.

On the catwalk, designer Haider Ackermann captured the colours and sheen of silks in new, heavier weights for urban trouser suits and separates, mixing western shapes with eastern traditions and using rich hues such as lapis lazuli, forest green and amber in a sophisticated way. Dries Van Noten regularly draws inspiration from oriental prints, while polka-dot artist Yayoi Kusama’s collaboration with Louis Vuitton resulted in a tsunami of spotted look-alikes.

Lustre and embellishment are strong themes this winter, with Marni, Van Noten and, closer to home, Louise Kennedy pairing gold with black in memorable ways. One of the most beautiful coats this season is Van Noten’s black one embellished with golden embroidery. Gucci went the whole way, pairing brocaded trouser suits with high boots, bag and a brocade coat.

Already on the high street, brocades like the slender gold-and-black Zara pants shown here luxuriate the current vogue for printed trousers. Longer lengths are expressed romantically in layers that are graceful and easy to wear, while a sharp leather jacket is softened with pleated accessories or a dip-dyed T-shirt. An easy style to wear but one that reflects more opulence in modern dress.