Beautiful chemistry: the lowdown on beauty products compounds

Is anyone else increasingly baffled by the language that is evolving around beauty products? There are so many chemicals, compounds and properties in products that it feels like you need a chemistry degree to keep up.

We’re not to bother buying a cleanser without salicylic acid, and if you want plump skin grab anything hydraluronic. Avoid microbeads and parabens and lather on antioxidants.

If you are finding it all a little much, you are not alone. Here’s a handy guide to explain some of the terms that we keep hearing.

Peptides

Peptides naturally occur in the skin. When added to a skincare regime they encourage regeneration and healing. They work over long periods of time to restore skin’s collagen, which improves skin elasticity and firmness, and they help in reducing the appearance of fine lines and surface scarring.

Copper peptides specially have received attention recently for their restorative benefits and although it’s important to remember that no single ingredient is a silver bullet when it comes to skin care, this one comes pretty close. Look for peptides in serums.

AHAs and BHAs

AHAs and BHAs are alpha and beta hydroxy acids and are mostly found in cleansers. Simply put, AHAs such as glycolic and lactic acids loosen the “glue” that attaches dead skin cells to your skin.

They are great in cleansers for dry skin but can cause photosensitivity and so should be used only at night. BHAs such as salicylic acid penetrate the pores and essentially “degunk”, working their magic on acne-prone or oily skin, but can be quite drying.

Antioxidants

Antioxidants are naturally occurring substances that help prevent cell damage caused by oxidants (antioxidants – get it?). Put them on in the morning (only) and they will protect your skin throughout the day by sponging up all the nasty free radicals found in things like cigarette smoke and air pollutants.

There are dozens of effective antioxidants but some to look out for are vitamin E, vitamin C, grape seed, resveratrol, green tea and retinol.

Parabens

Parabens are chemical preservatives used to prevent products developing mould or bacteria. Most companies are now trying to rid their products of these chemicals and “paraben free” has been popping up on labels for years.

The main worry is that parabens interfere with the body’s hormones and they’ve also been linked to breast cancer tumours. The European Union allows small doses of some parabens in products, so check for ingredients such as ethylparaben, methylparaben and propylparaben.

Hyaluronic acid 

Hyaluronic acid is a natural element found in the skin that retains massive amounts of water. By helping water into the lower levels of the dermis it provides a temporary plumping effect.

When applied to the face hylaluronic needs water to work properly, so make sure to apply to a damp face or with a water-based moisturiser to lock moisture into the skin.