Aisling on Beauty: What the heck is ‘essence’?

Prepare yourself for cosmetic confusion, the likes of which we have not seen since the introduction of alphabet creams: BB, CC, DD and their ilk. Essence is another import from the world of K-beauty (Korean beauty) and it is probably best described as a sort of a watery serum.

Just like serums, different essences have different skincare benefits depending on their active ingredients. Some will brighten, others hydrate or tackle acne outbreaks. You’ll also find essence-type products called “emulsions” “ampules” or “concentrates”. Just to add to the confusion, Koreans may use the words “serum” and “essence” interchangeably.

In case your head is slightly wrecked at this point, let's ground ourselves with a product that is familiar to many of us. In Korea, Estée Lauder Advanced Night Repair is known as the "brown bottle essence" and is hugely popular. The consistency and treatment benefits are typical of many essences.

At the moment, luxury brands already established in the western market, such as Shiseido and SK-II, have essence products in their ranges. Premium brands such as Sisley, Clinique, L’Occitane and Kiehl’s have also recently brought essences to market.

Now, with the launch of The Body Shop essence, we're seeing availability trickle down to more affordable levels. Will we see essence on the supermarket shelves soon? I'd bet my last jar of moisturiser on it.

Koreans use them after cleansing and toning and before serum. Funnily enough, when I read about the popularity of the “brown bottle essence” I realised that is exactly how I have been using Advanced Night Repair for years anyway.

On nights when my skin is really dry and I feel that Tutankhamun probably has a fresher complexion than mine, I use Advanced Night Repair after cleansing. I let it soak in for a few minutes, then put a hydrating serum on top. Then I mix some facial oil with a rich moisturiser and pat it in. Leave a good gap between each product so it has a chance to sink in.

This seems like a million steps, but this kind of layering is great for dry or tired skin. So yes, essence does work and can give skin something extra.

• amcdermott@irishtimes.com
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