An art of adornment

GROOMING:Nail art is pushing the boundaries between cosmetics and high fashion. ROSEMARY MACCABEtalks to a few exponents of the technique

DO YOU RECOGNISE the names Sophy Robson, Sharmadean Reid, Aoife Kelly? They are household names in the world of fashion, but have managed, simultaneously, to fly somewhat under the radar. They are nail artists. Robson is the woman responsible for those lacquered talons in the Tom Ford ads, while Reid is the founder of Wah Nails, the London nail salon that opened in Dundrum last year. Kelly, meanwhile, is a Trinity student painting nails from a tiny fold-up chair in a vintage store in Temple Bar, and is better known as the Alpha Nail.

So when did nails become big beauty business? “There has been a big market for nail art in the UK for a couple of years now,” Kelly says. “It’s creeping into Ireland a bit later, as with everything else, but people are definitely more inclined to choose something a little bit different lately.”

Karla Heaney is salon manager at Wah Nails in Harvey Nichols in Dundrum. “It is just something different and looks so creative,” she says. “It’s such a small space to work on, but you can do so much with it.”

Nail art has also begun to follow fashion trends. Tutorials abound online, from nails to match the latest Miu Miu glitter booties, for example, to the “new French” manicure designed by Robson earlier this year. For the Topshop Unique show at London Fashion Week, Robson designed miniature hieroglyphs for each nail on every model’s hands. At House of Holland, Robson painted nails in ombré on each model.

“Trends in nail art are constantly changing,” Kelly says. “I think, as time goes on, people will pay more attention to what designers are doing with nails. You just have to flick through a copy of Vogue to have a quick look at nails on models in advertisements for Chanel or Dior.”

At Wah, the girls paint nails from a wide variety of designs featured on their “books”, but, Heaney says, she also likes the opportunity to be creative. “I like doing abstract stuff,” she says. “I like writing on nails, too. I love when people have their own interpretations. I like when they challenge you a bit.”

Kelly, too, relishes the chance to try new things, and has her sights set high. “I would love to do Katy Perry’s nails,” she says. “She always has the most out-there designs. I’d probably do loads of 3D art. I know she’s cat-obsessed so I’m thinking some little 3D whiskers and paw prints.”

As with fashion, nail trends come and go – so what’s hot now? “The leopard print would be our most popular nail design,” says Heaney. “It suits everyone.”

Kelly has become famed for her version of the “galaxy” or “nebula” nail, a dark navy or violet nail with specks of silver and white. It’s a painstaking operation. “The galaxy is one of the most popular designs I do,” says Kelly. “But the Cath Kidston and classic leopard nails are really popular too.”

So what’s coming down the line? “I think Minx nails are going to be really big over Christmas,” Heaney says. “They’re foils for nails. And I think dalmatian print will be big for a few weeks.” With House of Holland showing dalmatian print in London very recently, she may just be on the money.

“Plain, matt-finish nails are going to be really big this autumn/winter,” says Kelly. “Chanel has released its first matt top coat.” It gives a chocolatey, velvet finish.

Aoife Kelly at The Alpha Nail works from 9 Crow Street in Temple Bar from Thursday to Saturday, thealphanail.com. Wah Nails is at Harvey Nichols, Dundrum, wah-nails.com/dublin