Italy produces some fantastic wines, yet the Irish are cool on them. Mary Dowey has a few suggestions for appreciating their quality
With ads for Prada, Gucci, Dolce & Gabbana and Armani in every self-respecting glossy magazine, you'd get a shock if it emerged that Italian fashion was in decline. But, in a toned-down form, that is the kind of contradiction Ireland is witnessing with Italian wine. I've lost track of the number of top-notch wine merchants who have told me Italy is their star performer. Sure enough, their Italian sections are stuffed with glamour and excitement. Yet Italy's share of the Irish market has been shrinking for a decade.
It ranks sixth, according to the latest published figures (for 2003), with a market share of 6.7 per cent - about half of its stake in 1995, when it was still our second-favourite wine source after France. In the meantime, Australia, Chile, the US and South Africa have sprinted out in front of Italy. The New World revolution is that recent.
So how has it become the darling of many of our most dynamic wine shops? Maybe for the very reason that the New World is winning on volume. Volume sales are dependent on supermarkets, so off-licence owners are looking in the opposite direction. "Italy is doing really well in independent off-licences, where there is a strong Old World bias at the moment," says Peter Roycroft of Liberty Wines, an importing company with a strong Italian portfolio. "I find it much, much easier to sell an Italian wine retailing at 20 than an Australian wine at that price."
As reported a few weeks ago, Monkstown's sleek new shop Enowine has a superb selection of Italian wines, all new to the market. Established retailers such as Michael's Wines, in Mount Merrion, are also dedicated Italophiles. "It's definitely getting easier to sell Italian wines at €12 to 15," says Liam Cabot, informed by experience both at Cabot & Co, his big new shop in the IFSC, and at WineKnows, the importing company with which he is involved. "People are far more prepared now to buy something on spec and see if they like it. Italy is doing well because the wines are so different."
There is also widespread agreement that, much higher up the price ladder, Italy is not doing so well. Demand for all but the most famous of the SuperTuscans, and other boutique wines out to impress in the €50-plus bracket, has waned. Shoppers with cash to spare seem to be turning their attention back the classic regions of France.
Still, it's marvellous to see tantalising newcomers at far more affordable prices. Italian winemakers may agonise all they like about whether it is wise to use international grapes such as Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot; the cheering reality is that most of the Italian wines we see here rely mainly on Italy's spectacular array of native grapes, from Nebbiolo in the north to Negroamaro in the south, with hundreds of varieties in between. You could drink your way around the country for a year without leaving home - and not feel bored for an instant.
What we need next, perhaps, to showcase Italian wines and hook more potential long-term fans is a truly fabulous Italian restaurant with a thrilling Italian wine list, somewhere to rival London eateries such as the River Café or Locanda Locatelli. Think about it, entrepreneurs. Dublin tongues are hanging out for a Dunne & Crescenzi up around Michelin-star level.
In the meantime, we might as well enjoy exploring those diverse and distinctive Italian flavours. Here are half a dozen that will bring hip Italian style to your table.
WHITE
Gavi di Gavi Cà da Bosio 2004 A smashing spring-summer white made from the Cortese grape, with almond aromas, delicious pear flavours and a super-fresh, uplifting finish. Many less-distinguished examples of Gavi di Gavi cost more. From Louis Albrouze, Leeson Street; Redmonds, Ranelagh; Claudio's, Market Arcade, South Great George's Street; Searsons, Monkstown; Grape Escape, Lucan; Wine Centre, Kilkenny; Lonergans, Clonmel; O'Donovans, Cork; and selected Next Door outlets; about €14.95.
Lahn Sauvignon, Südtirol-Alto Adige, St Michael- Eppan 2003 Nothing unique or remotely Italian about Sauvignon? I thought so, too. But this Alpine version, suffused with citrusy elegance, stands right out from the crowd. Sauvignon doesn't come much smarter. From Cabot & Co, IFSC; On the Grapevine, Booterstown and Dalkey; about €15.99.
RED
Bigi Vipra Rosso, Umbria 2003 This new arrival pulls off the tricky feat of offering gutsy individuality and all-round appeal (that's Sangiovese and Merlot for you) at an unbeatable price. Watch it spread to more outlets soon at Ferrari speed. From Redmonds, Ranelagh; Higgins, Clonskeagh; McCabes, Mount Merrion; Gables, Foxrock; Cheers-Gibneys, Malahide; Vineyard, Galway; €8.95-€9.50.
Chianti Tenuta Cerro del Masso 2003 Another all-too-rare addition to the tiny selection of truly tasty Chiantis priced under €15. Slightly rustic in style, with black-cherry and date flavours and a satisfyingly fleshy texture, it has a nice bite, which means it needs food. From Michael's Wines, Mount Merrion; Cheers-Silver Granite, Palmerstown; €13.50-€13.99
BOTTLES OF THE WEEK
Promessa Negroamaro, Puglia 2003 A few years ago this wine's sister, Promessa Rosso Salento, was a bottle of the week, but right now this hugely likeable bottling of the Negroamaro grape from the deep south has the edge. It's dark, rich and intriguing, with a silky elegance instead of the blockbuster personality you might expect. Brilliant value. Enjoy it with pasta in a flavour-packed meat sauce. From Grape Escape, Lucan; Red Island, Skerries; Mill, Maynooth; Pettitts in south-east; Vineyard, Galway; about €9.99.
Morellino di Scansano Bellamarsilia, Poggio Argentiera 2003 From an up-and-coming area of Tuscany, near the coast, this fragrant rendering of Sangiovese, with opulent fruit, subtle oak and a firm, lingering finish, tastes as if it belongs in a much higher price bracket. Gloriously appetite-whetting. Have a roast or your best casserole on hand to show it off. From Higgins, Clonskeagh; McCabes, Mount Merrion; Gables, Foxrock; Cheers-Gibneys, Malahide; Vineyard, Galway; €14.50-€14.99.