About face

A few simple tricks will give you a fresher look, writes Phyl Clarke

A few simple tricks will give you a fresher look, writes Phyl Clarke

They say that youth is wasted on the young, and I have to agree. I despair when I see a beautiful young face plastered with foundation, usually in an unflattering shade of Tango orange.

At the other end of the scale, years of applying cosmetics does not necessarily mean that practice makes perfect. What I refer to as time-warp make-up - that is, wearing the same face you wore when young - will not make you look young. In fact the opposite is true.

Clever application will shape and lift the face - it's not called maquillage for nothing. Trompe l'oeil might be a more appropriate term, as modern techniques can trick the eye by playing with light and shade.

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Before you skip to the gardens page, thinking that all this sounds like hard work, let me assure you that a few simple tricks will make a huge difference, so stop trying to look younger and start making yourself look better.

Never was the saying "less is more" more appropriate. If you switch your priorities to concealing, you can lighten up on the base with a film of colour. Apply concealer under your eye and around your nose and chin, with a little on cheeks if you have a high colour, evening out your complexion. You may even skip a foundation altogether, and finish with a sweep of powder, but make sure it's not too matte, as a flour-bag face screams frumpy. Clinique'sGentle Light powder (€29.50) has a subtle reflective quality that's very fresh. An alternative is to use a mineral foundation that has a pearlised, natural finish.

BlushThis is the most important colour you will add to your face, so take time to select the one that lights up your eyes and teeth and gives you a healthy glow: your perfect blush should do all three. Don't shy away from the brighter shades of pink and peach; these are the blushes that give a burst of youthful bloom to the face, and they look far stronger in the palette than on the skin.

EyebrowsAs the years roll on, eyebrows become thin and uneven, so fill with very light strokes. Choose a shade lighter, not darker, using a little more at the arch of the brow.

EyesA clean, polished, natural look is all the rage. First, an eye base will smooth and even out your eyelid. Trish McEvoy'sEye Base Essentials (€21) is excellent. Then apply a neutral shadow that is silky rather than shimmery. Finish off with eyeliner - pencil, powder or liquid. Lancôme'sLiner Design (€27.50) has a felt tip, which makes for easy application. Apply as closely as you can to your top lashes while looking down into a mirror. Do not stretch your skin, take your time and correct any gaps. This is one technique worth perfecting, as it makes your eyes look more open. Go for a waterproof mascara, as maturer eyes tend to smudge more easily.

LipsPerilous Botox, trout-pout lip plumpers and heavy glosses are all methods of making the lips look fuller, but there are subtler ways to enhance lips, which get thinner as we age. On counters from today is Benefit'sCupid's Bow (€32), which is a little gem for shaping and plumping lips. Choose a lip colour with a little shimmer - gloopy glosses have no place here.

HighlighterA little highlighter, such as YSL'sTouche Éclat (€27), applied above the top lip, will make your lips look fuller. Applied under the arch of your eyebrow, it will open up the area, making your eyes look fresher. Also, dab a smidgen at the outside corner of your eye, to lift it. Apply on nose to mouth lines, and dark shadows either side of the mouth, for an instant facelift. A sweep of ' Benefit'sDandelion (€33.50) face highlighter can knock 10 years off your face and give you a fresher version of yourself. Who would say no to that?