The Uth of today

Observers of the clothing retail business have been noticing for some time that while many British chain stores have been loitering in the economic doldrums, one label continues to flourish. This is Jigsaw Menswear, which only came into existence five years ago but has witnessed steady expansion ever since. A division of Jigsaw, the menswear has been designed since its inception by Chris Bailey, a 40-year-old Londoner who seems to understand flawlessly the requirements of his target market. Bailey joined Jigsaw in 1985 when the company's owner John Robinson asked him to oversee in-house production and ensure standards were maintained to the highest levels.

Then, in 1994, Jigsaw Menswear made its debut with Bailey in charge not just of design but also production, marketing and advertising. From the start, every aspect of the label has been his concern. Subsequently, he introduced two subdivisions, The Edge, which focuses on sporty streetwear, and Bailey, a relatively small seasonal signature collection based around innovative fabrics and finishing techniques. What has distinguished all sections of Bailey's Jigsaw Menswear has been a keen awareness of trends in this section of the clothing business, translated into an affordable product. The items are sharp-edged but not impossibly expensive and certainly very covetable. It is this combination of qualities which has made the brand one of the retail winners of the current decade.

For the next century, Chris Bailey has decided to go further - buying out the menswear company for which he has been responsible and giving it a new name. That name is Uth, an obvious play on "Youth". According to Bailey, "Uth" was selected for its translinguistic possibilities as well as his personal belief that youth is a state of mind more than a category of age.

"It's about clear thinking, someone who is prepared to take a view. It's not an age thing; it's more about attitude." The plan is to phase out the Jigsaw Menswear name in existing stores (including Dublin) over the next few months and bring in Uth instead. Shops will continue to carry the Bailey and The Edge labels. At the moment, the company has a presence not just in this country and England but also in Japan (where there are eight outlets) and Denmark. Over the next year or so, Scotland, Italy and the United States will be added to this list of countries. Whatever about the name inside the garments changing, their essential characteristics will otherwise remain largely unaltered. Chris Bailey's clothes are contemporary and urban in spirit. They take cognisance of current trends without being slavishly enamoured of them and they have a consistent sharpness of silhouette.

For the season ahead, the palette is restricted to a handful of colours - black, white, grey, khaki and silver - highlighted by orange, red, pink and lilac.

Similarly, the main shapes have been kept simple and strong with drawstring trousers, padded and hooded gilets and puffa jackets, and bold three-quarter-length sleeve sweaters. This summer, Jigsaw Menswear has been one of the only chains offering cropped trousers, and they will be available again for autumn/winter from Uth. The Bailey line is to include trousers which zip up the sides of the ankles, funnel-necked tops and fake fur shirt jackets. Then there will be laser-cut leather coats with velcro fastenings and paper-effect shirts; neither of these is likely to be found in other chainstore menswear ranges, which tend to respond more slowly and cautiously to change.

Aside from a new name, therefore, Chris Bailey's concept is still what it has been since he produced the first line for Jigsaw Menswear in 1994. If its originator's track record remains consistent, Uth seems set to become one of the next millennium's first retail successes.

Jigsaw Menswear at 42 Grafton Street, Dublin, will carry the Uth line from September and will change its own branding and logo to the new name during the coming months