Back to the future

STEPPING out in Roscrea is a bit like stepping back into the 1950s. After the frantic pace of the main Limerick road, there's an easy charm about this bustling country town where old farmers still haggle with waitresses about the price of "the dinner" and keen listeners can learn a thing or two about the modern hurling game just by choosing the right pub for a lingering pint.

Roscrea is a heritage town in an area steeped in ancient stones and stories but, developmentally, is still finding its feet. The heritage designation is just a few years old, the by pass only a few months old, and as the last of the juggernauts fades from the town's memory and fabric, the council, voluntary bodies and traders are getting down to some serious refurbishment and, hopefully, some serious car parking facilities.

Optimism is in the air. Given a few years of tender loving care by the local authority and the fruit ion of some ambitious plans by the commendably representative community development council, this friendly old town, founded at what was once the crossroads of Ireland, will soon come into its own.

. INFORMATION:

The tourist office is located in Damer House through the gates of the castle and is staffed by chatty, enthusiastic young women. The office is open from 9.30 a.m. - 6 p.m., seven days a week.

. WORTH VISITING:

Roscrea Castle still dominates the town. The beautifully restored, 13th century stone building with gate tower, draw bridge, curtain walls and two corner towers, was erected to fortify this corner of Ely O'Carroll country and its strategic situation on the Slighe Dhala, one of the five great roads of ancient Ireland. In the castle courtyard stands the 18th century Queen Anne style Damer House the pine staircase is a beauty and is said to be only one of two still surviving in Ireland. As well as lace and architectural Damer House is also home to the Kelly Family Room, full of old farm and kitchen implements, many stills recognisable but rapidly becoming museum pieces. There is an admission charge (£2.50 per adult, £6 for a family) with guided tours on request. The tourist office will also supply a map for the 13 point Roscrea Heritage Walk beginning with the castle and taking in the Franciscan Friary and St Cronan's Monastery with its round tower and high cross.

. WHAT TO BUY:

Antique aficionados will already be aware of Victor Mitchell's emporium on the Dublin Road as a good place to browse. Furniture auctions are held periodically.

In the town, Stonewoods is an attractive little interiors shop stocking Stephen Pearce and Judy Greene pottery and Jerpoint glass as well as wrought iron, lamps and other crafts. Summer opening hours include Sunday afternoons.

. WHERE TO STAY:

Unmissable at the centre of town, all decked out in yellow, is Grant's Hotel, brand new successor to the Pathe, which charges £33 for a single or £55 for a prettily decorated en suite double overlooking the castle entrance, if you're lucky and can sleep through the clatter of the street, late and early. Somewhat cheaper is The Tower in Church Street, opposite the old Cistercian Abbey. Recently refurbished en suite rooms including TV and telephone are £20 per person sharing.

Out the road (or nearer the bypass) is Slighe Dhala, an attractive purpose built B & B, again with all rooms en suite, for £15 per person. Or for those who want to maintain the link with the past, on the Dublin Road there is Derryvale House, a lovely Georgian B & B, directly opposite the 18 hole golf club. That in turn is next door to Racket Hall, an 18th century country hotel, which serves food all day, every day. The latter offers a package of a day's golf, dinner and B & B for £42.

. WHERE TO EAT:

Go straight to the higgledy piggledy stone built Waterfront cafe/art gallery in The Mall for good coffee and sweet things, or if it's meal time, treat yourself to baked trout or chicken cordon bleu with new potatoes, or some home made lasagne and some delicious dessert. They will happily dispense child size portions or alternatively dish up a kiddy package of soup, sausages, beans, chips and ice cream for £3. The Waterfront is open daily from 9 a.m. to 7 p.m. (Thursday and Friday open till 9 p.m.).

Grant's Hotel has a coffee shop and bistro, but more interesting by far in the same hotel is Kitty's Tavern, a big, colour washed area with the eponymous Kitty up under the rafters, sitting on a bed slugging a pint. Down below, there is plenty of space for family groups and others needing a bit more solitude to spread themselves out and linger over lunch or a drink. And if it's Sunday or a holiday weekend and the offspring seem beyond redemption, treasure this thought Grant's run a creche from noon to 6 p.m.

The Tower also serves meals and coffee, but if all you crave is fast food in spanking clean, childproof surroundings any day of the week, Supermac's on Main Street will dish up all the chips, pizzas, chicken nuggets, burgers and milk shakes that a McBody could need. If after that they're still suffering from car fever, take them to the excellent children's playground down in Glebe Park where they can finish off the takeaways at a picnic table, climb a rope ladder or kick a ball around while you learn to breathe again.

Want a quiet, formal dinner, pleasantly and efficiently served? Try The Lemon Tree restaurant in Grant's where dinner is around £19 a head. The downside if choosing a la carte, is that it is one of those annoying places which slaps on an extra charge for basic vegetables to eat with your (already pricey) main course.

. NIGHT MOVES:

You have a choice of 26 pubs to kick up your heels in before bedtime. If you're youngish, blaze a trail to Good Tyme Charlie's or the Hogan Stand at the weekend, try Kitty's Tavern before strolling into the disco. Many of the pubs provide regular musical entertainment of some kind, including Charlie's, Delahunty's, Bergerac's and Grant's, ranging from folk and blues to rock.

The Tower new to the vintners business won the Tipperary best newcomer of the year award in 1995 for its West Gable pub and is a good place for a quiet pint. The White House is also a favourite with the locals. For hurling chat, look no further than Mick Phelan's.

. DAY-TIME EXERTION:

Roscrea may lack a swimming pool (Nenagh is the nearest) but there are facilities for golfing, hiking, canoeing, horse riding, fishing and shooting all within a few miles. Roscrea Golf Club is a few minutes away (weekday green fee is just £10 a day, £12 at weekends) while Birr and Nenagh courses are within 20 minutes.

There is fishing for brown trout in the River Brosna and in the little lakes close by for which fishing licences and equipment are available locally. The high quality pitch and putt course on the Birr Road is a big hit with all ages, but for those in search of new horizons, an enterprising local man, David Horan (find him at Good Tyme Charlie's pub, telephone 0505-21106), runs canoe trips up the Brosna, suitable even for raw novices. These come highly recommended for the craic as well as the sporting challenge, not to mention the surroundings "almost like a nature trail for a day with a bit of heritage thrown in Groups of six and over are catered for with a packed lunch.

Anyone with a penchant for walking, orienteering or climbing could also find a base in Roscrea, the gateway to one of the most beautiful unspoilt nature havens in Ireland the Slieve Bloom mountains. (Contact Patrick Dooley at 0505-21406).

. OTHER ATTRACTIONS IN THE AREA:

One of Roscrea's great amenities is its hinterland of mysterious places and monuments. Take the Timoney Stones these comprise 292 stones scattered across 200 acres, including eight uprights. No one knows what they mean Bronze Age monument or the folly of some daft 19th century landlord? Or take a look at Leap Castle, if you dare (only from the outside), the most infamous of the O'Carroll castles and reputedly the most haunted castle in the country a reflection, they say, on its turbulent and tragic past. Drive out to Monaincha, an abbey with a recorded history of nearly 1,300 years, and mentioned in the Book of Ballymote as the 31st wonder of the world. Take a tour around the newly restored Ballaghmore Castle, dating from 1480 and learn about its earlier restoration in 1836 by a Mr Ely who found a hoard of gold on the land.

If it's peace you crave, and natural beauty, and a wonderful safe place to let the children roam like small animals for an hour or two, drive the couple of miles out to Mount St Joseph's Abbey and soak in the forest walks and woodland areas, the orchards, rivers and little waterfalls. Then buy some of the delicious brown bread made in the monastery and have it with your picnic or in the monastery's tea rooms. Heaven on earth.

. DID YOU KNOW?

The most famous of Slieve Bloom's legendary inhabitants was Fionn MacCumhaill, who was brought up secretly in the mountains by a druidess and a wise woman.

. WHERE'S THE LOO?

There are toilets in the shopping centre entrances from Castle Street and Main Street.

. HOW TO GET THERE:

Roscrca, in north Tipperary, is about two hours drive from Dublin and is served by train from the capital and bus from surrounding towns. It is off the N7 by pass. 20 miles from Thurles and Nenagh.