All that glitters is not ethical

Diamonds are a symbol of love. But in Sierra Leone they are equated with exploitation, and a new campaign calls for fair trade in the diamond industry, writes Anne Dempsey

Most couples probably choose a ring for its beauty and affordability rather than its origins. Few of us know the provenance of the gemstones we buy, or even know why we need to know. Yet, in certain parts of Africa, the diamond trade has long been a source of exploitation and abuse rather than prosperity and advancement. Now the advocacy charity, Sierra Leone Ireland Partnership (SLIP), has launched a campaign to raise public awareness of the negative impact that the diamond trade has had on poor countries, particularly Sierra Leone.

Diamonds were discovered in Sierra Leone in the 1930s and, while they contributed to foreign exchange, vast amounts of precious stone left the country through illicit channels. When civil war erupted in 1991, diamonds were the main source of finance for the insurgents, with gems exchanged for weapons and ammunition at the Liberian border. Workers used as carriers risked having their hands cut off if they refused.

SLIP member Natasha McDermott, a former stockbroker with a long interest in development, recently joined Caritas to work in west Africa. While studying last year for a Masters in international business, she chose to study the political impact of diamonds on Sierra Leone, travelling to Freetown in June 2004 to interview a cross-section of local people and non-governmental organisations.

She has concluded that, while the civil war is over, diamond exploitation continues. "Many of the Sierra Leone diamonds are alluvial, found in river beds; there is child labour, no care for health or safety, very poor pay. Workers are hired as local labour; the trader with the licence gives them a loan to buy sieving equipment, monies they have to pay back. They must sell what they find to the licence holder, they are always ripped off, and illegal exports still take place."

Some $400 million worth of diamonds has been smuggled from Sierra Leone since 1990, says Martin Rowan, honorary secretary of SLIP, and more than $45 million worth since 2002. One consequence of this haemorrhaging is that Sierra Leone is the poorest country in the world, with a per capita GDP of $520. In contrast, nearby diamond-rich but stable Botswana enjoys a per capita income of $8,000 and a more developed health and educational system.

How should we respond to such facts? SLIP believes that government revenue in Sierra Leone would dramatically increase if more consumers asked retailers about the origins of the diamonds for sale. "We would ask Irish consumers to insist that their jeweller provide them with a warranty guaranteeing that 'the diamonds herein invoiced have been bought from legitimate sources', or words to that effect," says Rowan.

Natasha McDermott agrees. "To ensure greater transparency and integrity in the global diamond industry, we as end consumers should ask: where are diamonds mined and sourced? Does the local mining community benefit from this rich natural resource? Does the jeweller provide certification providing proof of origin with every diamond purchase?

"Diamonds may be a girl's best friend, but they are also the best friends of ruling élites, rebels and their external supporters in the Western world," she says.

Trócaire Lenten Campaign co-ordinator Sean Farrell became engaged to Irene Curley in December 2003. Because he had worked in Africa and knew the abuses committed in diamond production, he felt a particular obligation to ensure that their engagement ring was ethically sourced. "Some Irish jewellers we approached said 'of course our diamonds are ethical', but were unable to furnish proof. We began Internet research and discovered The Canadian Diamond Company, which provided stones with government documentation and an audit trail."

The couple chose their diamonds from the Canadian company, imported them to Ireland and had them designed in a ring by Longford jeweller Willie Rabbitte.

"It was not so convenient as walking into a jeweller's here, but it was much more personal. When we did our sums and compared like with like, we discovered we had saved 30 per cent - though cost was not an issue.

"Diamonds are meant to be a sign of love, and I could not have been happy choosing a diamond which may have been produced in appalling conditions or a part of the profits of war," he says.

James Murtagh is president of the Retail Jewellers of Ireland (RJI), which represents 120 independent jewellers. "All of our members were advised of the Kimberley Process Certification Scheme created by 52 governments in January 2003," he says. "Members were urged to deal only with suppliers who meet the warranty requirements and subscribe to other elements of the self-regulatory system, and to inform all their diamond suppliers in writing that they will require a warranty with the invoice.

"We welcomed the programme to eliminate conflict diamonds. It is almost impossible to pinpoint where exactly a particular diamond has come from. We can only put our trust in the current system which ensures that the diamonds have been sold on to us by a supplier who, in turn, has been guaranteed by his supplier, and so on back to the mine they originate from. The proportion of conflict diamonds in circulation was always small. The new programme introduced long-term, comprehensive safeguards to bar the introduction of conflict diamonds going forward."

For further information, contact SLIP at slip@gofree.indigo.ie, tel: 01-8823655