Go Citybreak:There's so much to do and see in this stunningly preserved city that you need to hit the ground running – rather like the horses at the Yorkshire Ebor Festival, writes Amy Laughinghouse
LEAVE IT TO a city hooked on horse racing to chalk up a hat-trick. If you are a betting soul, you would have done well to back York for a trifecta in the 2010 Google Street View Britain’s Best Streets Awards.
This stunningly preserved city, which traces its history back to a Roman settlement in 71 AD, placed first for most picturesque street (The Shambles), second for fashion (Stonegate), and third for food (Fossgate).
If there was a quirky museum category, the newly renovated Jorvik Viking Centre surely would have swept that, too, for its lifelike robotic rat and best simulated animatronic visit to what might politely be called the “Thunderbox.” Oh yes indeed.
So if you can tear yourself away from the pounding hooves at next week’s Welcome to Yorkshire Ebor Festival, which features the £650,000 (€778,000) Juddmonte International (one of the top three contests in the world), take a little time to explore. You’ll find ample opportunities to fill your belly and empty your wallet of racetrack winnings among York’s compact maze of “snickelways” (paths), embraced by the longest medieval town walls in England.
I had visited before in cold, blustery November, but returning with my husband on a summer racing weekend, I found York utterly transformed. Flowerboxes overflowing with blossoms brightened street corners. Women in improbably high heels and feathered fascinators – obviously bound for the racetrack – teetered in front of shop windows, and girls in hen-night regalia, from bobbling bee antennae to neon tutus, faux afros and false eyelashes so long you could feel the breeze with every flutter, gathered in cafes alongside the River Ouse (pronounced “ooze”) to fight off the heat with cool cocktails and tall pints.
We began at, well, pretty nigh the beginning of the city itself, with a tour of York Minster’s undercroft. Descending a flight of stairs, we found ourselves amid Roman rubble – broken columns, low stone walls, and a partially reconstructed fresco of the sunny Italian countryside which, according to an informational placard, “may have been the Roman’s way of dealing with our harsh Northern climate.” (A frowning tragedy mask painted in one corner suggests that they didn’t quite succeed).
Continuing on, we pressed our noses to glass cases filled with churchly treasures, including a well-worn rosary belonging to Anthony Babington, who was executed for plotting to overthrow Queen Elizabeth I, a golden chalice embedded with a whopping 32-carat diamond, and enough silver bits and pieces to probably pay off the national debt – and still run Buckingham Palace for a year. St William FitzHerbert, a 12th-century Archbishop, is also at rest here, ensconced in a recycled Roman tomb beneath barrel-vaulted ceilings.
Having paid homage to York’s history, it was time to check out Google’s best bets. Stonegate, runner-up in the “fashion” category, is a stone’s throw from the Minster and is flanked by many of the usual High Street suspects, as well as funkier finds like Ness, hawking chic, brightly-coloured tweeds and tartans (no, I never thought I would use “chic” and “tweed” in the same sentence, either); Dolce Pelle, a leatherwear store; and The Armoury, stocking an array of swords and helmets for all your knightly needs.
MORE ANCIENTweaponry can be had at The Antiques Centre York, where a Persian battle-axe and dagger, circa 1800 BC, keep company with a rusty-looking medieval hunting dog collar – although that might not qualify as couture, except in some rather dubious nightclubs.
From Stonegate, we stumped over to The Shambles, where cantilevered timber-framed shops tip precariously over the cobbled lane and bay windows display touristy trinkets and a tempting variety of handmade chocolates, fudge and toffee. The York Sausage Shop hearkens back to The Shambles’ origins as a butcher’s beat, while Xing Smoothies is an almost startlingly anachronistic offering in a street that could otherwise double as a medieval movie set.
Stomachs rumbling from our ramble, we were pleased to stumble upon Fossgate, Google's third-place finisher in the food category. J Baker's Modern Bistro, notable for its updated take on traditional British fare, earned a mention in The Good Food Guide 2010, which praises its "snappy assortment of little dishes" and "forthright, fancy-free offerings".
We found satisfaction a few doors down at Mason’s Bar and Bistro, feasting on a mini-mezze plate of houmous, tzatziki and olives, washed down with inexpensive glasses of the house red. Our favourite discovery was The Hairy Fig, a foodie’s treasure trove tucked into two adjoining shops. Antique mahogany shelves groan beneath the weight of dozens of demijohns filled with elderberry gin, sloe gin, single malt whiskies and aged balsamic vinegars up to 100-years-old.
Sausages dangle temptingly from a rack, and Yorkshire beef pasties are propped in a deli counter. The owner, Sue Hardie, also runs a bijoux café at the back of one store, labouring over a two-burner hob to produce every dish herself.
“I don’t know what I’ll be doing from one day to the next,” confessed Hardie, who draws inspiration from her shop’s carefully sourced stock. “I use all small individual companies,” she said, explaining that many products, including some fudge, pâtés and confits, are made especially for her.
Satiated and exhausted as dusk settled upon our first day, we were ready to hit the hay. We had hardly scratched York’s surface, with a walk on the city walls, the gleaming antique trains at the National Railway Museum, and all the attractions of greater Yorkshire, including its castles, moors and coast, still patiently awaiting our attention.
We promised ourselves that tomorrow, rather like the horses, we would hit the ground running.
Where to stay, where to eat and where to go
5 places to stay
York Marriott. Tadcaster Road, 00-44--1904-701000, marriott.co.uk. Four-star property boasts a swimming pool, spa and views of York Racecourse from its terrace. Doubles from £159 (€190).
Hotel du Vin Bistro. 89 The Mount, 00-44-1904-557350, hotelduvin.com. Boutique hotel in a 19th-century mansion about a 15-minute walk from York Racecourse. Doubles from €139 (€166).
Cedar Court Grand Hotel & Spa. Station Rise, 00-44-845-4096430, cedarcourtgrand.co.uk. Built on the site of the North Eastern Railways headquarters, The Grand promises five-star luxury, with a whisky lounge, mosaic-tiled corridors, and a spa. Doubles from £129 (€154).
Best Western Dean Court Hotel. Duncombe Place, 00-44-1904-625082, deancourt-york.co.uk. Four-star accommodation across from York Minster with a 2 AA Rosette Award Restaurant. Doubles from £140 (€167) including breakfast.
Park Inn York. North Street, 00-44-1904-459988, parkinn.co.uk/hotel-york. This newly-refurbished, simply furnished hotel is conveniently located on the River Ouse. Many of the 200-rooms offer river views. Doubles from £109 (€130).
5 places to eat
Nineteen. 19 Grape Lane, 00-44-8458-730931, nineteenyork.com. Nestled in a cosy 15th-century timber-framed building, Nineteen not only has a great atmosphere, it also serves some of York's best twisty British fare. Think Black Pudding Scotch Egg with Beetroot, Scottish Smoked Salmon with Celeriac Rémoulade and Tempura Vegetables, and Local Pork Fillet with Ham, Truffle Croquettes and Apple Gravy.
Café Concerto. 21 High Petergate, 00-44-1904-610478, cafeconcerto.biz. Need an afternoon pick-me-up? Stop in for a sandwich and a slice of fresh-baked cake at this musically-themed cafe just steps from York Minster.
Betty's Café Tea Rooms. 6-8 St Helen's Square, 00-44-1904-659142, bettys.co.uk. Elegant Art Deco décor and waitresses traditionally attired in long white aprons and longer black skirts transport you back to 1919, when this legendary tearoom was founded. An adjoining shop also sells an assortment of chocolates, biscuits, cakes and pies.
The Hairy Fig. 38/39 Fossgate, 00-44-1904-677074, thehairyfig.co.uk. Take your goodies to go, or, if you're lucky enough to get a seat in the tiny cafe, let owner Sue Hardie whip up the speciality of the day for you on her two-burner stove.
J Baker's Bistro Moderne. 7 Fossgate, 00-44-1904-622688, jbakers.co.uk. With dishes like Cheesecake Waterloo with shallot jam and maple and sesame brittle, this isn't your average Yorkshire fare.
5 places to go
Yorkshire Museum. Museum Gardens, 00-44-1904-687687, yorkshiremuseum.org.uk. Having reopened on August 1st after a £2 million refurbishment, the Yorkshire Museum boasts a new audio-visual introduction to York and three new exhibitions – Roman York, Medieval York and Extinct.
Jorvik Viking Centre. Coppergate, 00-44-1904-615505, jorvik-viking-centre.co.uk. Following a recent renovation, the museum features a glass floor revealing the foundations of a Viking house and cases filled with Viking bling and bones. Kids will love the ride (via automated pods that look like Luke Skywalker's golf cart) through a recreated Viking village with talking animatronic townsfolk – and even a robotic rat. (At least, I hope it was).
National Railway Museum. Leeman Road, 00-44-8448-153139, nrm.org.uk. The collection features almost 300 rail vehicles, including the Mallard (the world's fastest steam engine) and a Japanese Bullet train, as well as an extensive archive of photos, books and historic posters. The "Simulator" allows you to experience the bumps and bends of "virtual" journeys, from a Space Shuttle launch to a roller coaster. Free entry.
Clifford's Tower. Tower Street, 00-44-1904-646940, english-heritage.org.uk/ cliffords. This 13th century hilltop keep affords panoramic views over York. Knee-biters working your nerves over the long summer break? Try out the stocks, manacles or the scold's bridle.
York Minster. Deangate, 00-44-1904-557216, yorkminster.org. Tour the largest Gothic church in northern Europe with some of the oldest stained glass in the country.
Hot spot
Welcome to Yorkshire Ebor Festival. August 17th-20th, York Racecourse, 00-44-1904-620911, york racecourse.co.uk. There are several types of tickets, with the County Stand offering the best amenities, including the Champagne Terrace, the Ebor Bistro and the Gimcrack Rooms, serving lunch and afternoon tea. Men must wear a jacket and tie in the County Stand. “Imagine you are going to a smart wedding,” the website suggests. Daily entry: Course Enclosure £7 (€8.30), Grandstand and Paddock £25 (€30), County Stand £50 (€60).
Shop spot
Beyond Stonegate, head to Sarah Coggles (91-93 Low Petergate, 00-44-1904-611001, coggles.com), a hip women’s boutique carrying brands like D&G, Farhi and Paul Smith. The fellas can check out Sarah Coggles’ menswear shop two doors down.
Top tip
The Yorkshire Pass. Available at yorkshirepass.com, it offers entry to more than 70 Yorkshire attractions at substantial savings. For instance, an adult two-day pass costing £38 (€45) is worth £100 (€120) in entry fees.
Go thereRyanair (ryanair.com ) flies from Dublin to Leeds Bradford with a bus connection from the airport into Leeds and onto York.
Aer Arann (aerarann.com) flies to Manchester from Galway, Kerry, and Waterford, Aer Lingus (aerlingus.com) flies from Dublin, Cork and Shannon, and BMI Baby (bmibaby.com) flies from Knock and Belfast. There is a train service from Manchester to York.
Amy Laughinghouse was a guest of visityork.org, and yorkshire.com