The Zapatista leader       in  2001. “My mask is a mirror,” he claimed, never showing his face in public and stirring huge mystery, as a result, about his own identity. Photograph: Jorge Uzon/AFP/Getty Images

In February 2001 I decided, on a whim, to jump on a bus and follow the Zapatista rebel group around Mexico. In the two weeks that followed, I slept ro(...)

Marcelo and Maria, Michael McCaughan’s  hosts at the Zapatista village of Moises Gandhi, with their youngest two children, outside their home. The ski masks are worn as the Zapatistas still remain officially outside the law. Photograph:  Sergio Chua

On January 1st, 1994, the Zapatista National Liberation Army (EZLN) launched an uprising in southeast Mexico, demanding land, democracy and freedom. T(...)

A thing of the past? Farc soldiers parading in the main square of San Vicente del Caguán, in what was then rebel-controlled southern Colombia in 2001. Photograph: Ricardo Mazalan/AP

When the Farc guerrilla movement’s chief peace negotiator said this week that Colombia’s half-century civil war was drawing to a close, it was just th(...)