An Irishwoman’s Diary on Galway’s Whiskey Trail

The image of men fleeing from the excise man to the Hills of Connemara is more likely to pop into our heads when we think of distilling in Galway. However, in 1815 the Persse Family established the legitimate HS Persse Nun’s Island Whiskey Distillery in the city. Amazingly it had an annual output of 400,000 gallons, much of which was exported to the UK and some of which found its way to the House of Commons.

The product it manufactured was called Galway Whisky and was advertised as being “Bottled in Her Majesty’s Bonded Warehouses by the Distillers when 7 or 10 years old, as supplied to the House of Commons”.

Persse’s was one of the first distilleries to bottle its own miniatures.

Persse’s closed in 1913 and in its almost 100 years of business was once Galway’s largest employer. Increased competition from the many Dublin-based distilleries with access to rail and canal transport is believed to have put paid to the economic viability of Persse’s.

The distillery may now be an abandoned building on the banks of the Corrib, but it will be remembered in the City of the Tribes with the initiation of the Galway Whiskey Trail.

Ten of the city’s famous pubs and one off-licence have come together to encourage and promote an appreciation of whiskey.

The launch of the Galway Whiskey Trail was with a commissioned theatrical event composed by Macnas Theatre Company called Uisce Beatha on August 14th, and an inaugural tasting hosted by master distillers Brian Nation and Barry Crockett in Nun's Island Theatre. Through the streets of the ancient city the characters of Uisce Beatha, led by drummers and a trumpet player, brought the art of making whiskey to life. Bewildered tourists looked on as the stilt-raised Hare and Fox led the pack to the Spanish Arch for a pageant with music, speeches, flares and fireworks.

Whiskey ambassadors

Each of the trail premises has an extensive range of whiskies, not just from Ireland but from Scotland, America, Japan, even Australia, upwards of 100 types. There must be two staff members trained as whiskey ambassadors and they should host three whiskey events each year. The investment by the proprietors can be seen in displays of high-end spirits, some costing €1,000 or more per bottle. A shot of Jameson Vintage will cost €45.65 in Sonny Molloy’s. It was a treat the original proprietor had on his birthday on November 13th. Tigh Neachtain alone has more than 130 whiskies.

The trail begins at Forster Street just off Eyre Square, where An Púcán might describe itself as having “just the right amount of crazy”. On sale is their own label Teeling whiskey, from 2002 aged in bourbon casks and finished in Carcevolos white port casks for a year.

Garvey’s is on the corner of Eyre Square and daily suggestions appear on the blackboard. O’Connell’s, also on the square, was once a grocery. Nowadays its interior is listed along with the choice of whiskies on sale.

The trail follows the line of William, Shop, Middle and Quay Streets with a detour to Mary Street for Blake’s Bar. Each bar seems to be older than the next. The King’s Head, Garavan’s, Freeney’s, Sonny Molloy’s, Tigh Neachtain, The Dáil Bar, the years are adding up. Even McCambridge’s artisan food store and off license is 90 years in business. Customers can sample whiskies before making a purchase.

Tony Freeney of Freeney’s operates as an off-licence and fishing tackle shop as well as a bar. Coming from a tradition where the bar bottled their own whiskies from the cask, he loves encouraging tourists to bring a bottle home.

From a production of 12 million cases in the mid 19th century by 88 licensed distilleries, Irish whiskey is finally seeing a revival. Ten distilleries are now producing top-quality whiskey and are beginning to get a toehold again in the international market. Jameson will next month celebrate the export of five million cases this year, mostly to the United States.

There are plans afoot to open 25 more distilleries. The Teeling Distillery opened in Dublin in June, the first to open in the city in 125 years. Another is due to open in Carlow soon. Tony sees these openings bringing a new craftsmanship to the country.

Each of the 11 establishments on the trail has a limestone plaque carved by stonemason Ray Ó Flatharta of Inverin. Copies of the map will be available from tourist offices in Galway and around the country. Watch out for the website, galwaywhiskeytrail.com.