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Fri 04 Apr 2003Looted palace of Chemical Ali is haunted by ghost of his crimes

In a flat landscape of mud fields and flat-topped farmhouses, the palace of Chemical Ali stands out for miles. Its crenellated tower of yellowish stone rises above a stand of date palms. It is a symbol of dominance and power. Paul Harris, near Basra

Or at least it used to be; as soon as the war began, Ali abandoned his home.