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Sat 03 Mar 2011Inside India's holiest city

Go India:There’s no escaping the unmistakable smells and sounds of Varanasi, the city where Hindus believe that dying and having your remains cremated next to the Ganges releases the soul from the cycle of rebirth, writes EMMA SOMERS

EVEN IN A “government approved” taxi from Varanasi airport, we find ourselves dumped in the middle of chaos, the driver pointing to a warren of streets, too narrow for any car, that apparently lead to the river. In Varanasi, everything leads to the river, eventually.

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