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Madeira is often written off as a destination for the retired middle classes, but it just begs for exploration by outdoor enthusiasts, offering everything from hiking and whale watching to canyoning and surfing, writes SARA KEATING

WITH ITS LUSH mountainous landscape and exotic flora, the island of Madeira offers a feast for the senses. Birds of paradise hover in hedges at the side of the road. Velvet bell-shaped upside-down tulips hang from balconies like ballgowns. Garlands of glamourous gardenias shimmer in pink and purple in wild-flower shrubs. Bunches of bananas stand upright on palm-heavy branches. Mangoes, passion fruit and chillies glow like light bulbs in the trees, and the pungent scent of wild garlic, oregano, pepper, mint – life itself breathing – enriches the warm air.