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GREEN THINKING:EVERY SUNDAY EVENING, Myrtle Allen’s myriad family members sit down around an enormous table in Ballymaloe House and have dinner together. It’s not always the full quotient, but generally whoever is around makes an appearance, with one of her daughters pouring wine, a son carving the meat, a son-in-law clearing plates, and maybe a grandchild or two serving the desserts. It’s like a who’s who of Ballymaloe, with only the matriarch herself missing, writes FIONA MCCANN

Until in bustles her heir apparent, Darina Allen, and it’s as if the sun around which the family orbits has finally risen. She whirls through the house and restaurant, correcting, cajoling, organising and delegating, and even when she finally takes her place at the table she’s the one whose booming voice resonates along its length, guiding the conversation, filling the gaps, keeping all involved engaged and entertained, as she flaps around the assembled brood.