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WILLPOWER:There’s a reunion in Dublin on July 26th for those who have walked El Camino. MARY RUSSELLwent back for more this year – solo

THE NOCTURNAL SIGHS, snores and flatulence of my sleeping fellow travellers in our 500-bed pilgrim hostel encouraged me to rise at 5am and venture into the dark for an early morning start on my way from Santiago to Finisterre.