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Sat 05 May 2009Getting it right from the starter
La Maison des Gourmets cafe has morphed into a restaurant, writes TOM DOORLEY.
THERE’S AN ARGUMENT that critics should leave well alone until a new restaurant has bedded down, got through the teething problems and made whatever unavoidable mistakes it’s going to make. Theatre productions do previews, at reduced prices. Most restaurants don’t. So, you could argue, restaurants are fair game from day one. They are charging full whack, so therefore the punters are justified in expecting the full, unexpurgated experience.
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