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TASTE:Sesame chicken thighs and a variation of Ottolenghi's toffee cheesecake: pure, delicious evil, writes Domini Kemp.

IF YOU'VE BEEN a dutiful reader, then at this stage you should know all about Ottolenghi, the fab food emporium in London, from Louise East's recent confession to her fetish. I am a big fan, and on a recent visit, I forced reluctant man and child to accompany me to the Kensington branch, straight off the plane from Heathrow. In typical fashion, I dragged them both to the wrong branch, and ended up in the delicatessen rather than the restaurant. I spent about 10 minutes peering inside from the street with my face pressed up against the window, desperately looking for seats and waiters. Alas, all I saw were beautiful food displays and giant cakes, for take-away consumption only.