Anger, kindness, humour: Berlin’s notes a travel guide to the city’s soul

The pieces of paper Berliners leave for each other make for compulsive reading


Notes hang everywhere in Berlin. On lamp-posts, doors and abandoned sofas, the notes open a funny, angry and often passive-aggressive window into the soul of the German capital.

Since October 2010, Berliners can upload notes they’ve snapped on their smartphones to notesofberlin.com. Enjoying this scurrilous, crowd-sourced humour is one of the best reasons to learn German.

Some recent favourites: “Soup of the Day: Beer”; “Dear neighbours: on March 11 I will be filming a clip and ask for your understanding when I scream loudly, four or five times.”

And my personal favourite, in a cafe: “Attention parents: unsupervised children get a double espresso and a free puppy.”

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Conflict potential

For website founder Joab Nist, who moved to Berlin from Munich a decade ago, the German capital is a note stronghold because, unlike other big cities, it is still a political place that offers rich conflict potential – between rich and poor, different generations, blow-ins and long-term residents.

“Berlin is a romantic city, but lonely and anonymous, idealistic and poor,” he said. “People say Berlin is tolerant but Berlin is actually ignorant. You can say, wear or do what you want but it’s because people don’t care.”

Like a long-term sociological experiment, the website documents various Berlin social norms, chief among which is the hallway note from one apartment-dweller to neighbours.

“I vomited out the window,” reads one, “but have to work now but will clean up later.”

Often, these notes are masterclasses in public complaining. “Please close the window during loud sex, you’re bothering the neighbours.”

One reply to such a note had a bag of sweets attached: “Sorry for the volume yesterday. Thanks for your patience. Sorry to say it was great.”

Often the notes are showcases for a unique intersection in Berlin, where idealistic meets creative.

“Recipe against a bad mood: tear off a piece of bubble wrap, pop every bubble between index finger and thumb, enjoy.”

Or the note that encourages passersby to “take what you need” from the tear-off strips: “Hope”, “Youth”, “Joy”, “Knowledge”, “Macbook”.

Free gifts

Sometimes the free gifts are more tangible. One note, with a small cellophane bag attached, read: “I’ve started a new life, new job and boyfriend. Stopped drinking and smoking weed. Please take this (careful, it’s strong stuff).”

Now Nist has begun work on an episodic film he hopes will bring to life the notes, and their authors, in small vignettes. He says the film will be “very experimental”, supplemented with community-generated content.

“We don’t want to develop it in isolation, but with the community,” he said. “The note will probably outlast the internet, particularly in Berlin. It’s like a travel guide to the city’s soul.”