Food writer Georgina Campbell sees red over poor standards

Below-par service and staff attitudes cited as persistant problems in Irish establishments

Poor service continues to be an issue in too many hotels and restaurants, food writer Georgina Campbell said when she announced her 2016 hospitality awards.

She and her team of assessors had come across many clusters of excellence around the country but a “worrying” number of sub-standard meals.

“We are not seeking perfection but hospitality with real heart, and we’re finding it in clusters of excellence all over the country,” she said.

“Poor service including wine service and poor attitude continues to be an issue in too many establishments of all types and, this year, very disappointing experiences in owner-run establishments when the proprietors were away have underlined yet again the need to understand the value of investing in staff training.

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“Equally worrying is the number of poor meals we have experienced this year, even in previously reliable establishments. Standards are very variable, which may be at least partly due to the current chef shortage, which is now an ongoing crisis,” she said.

Ms Campbell said she supported the Restaurants Association of Ireland’s call for Government measures to tackle the skills deficit, including the re-establishment of the former State tourism training agency Cert.

Ms Campbell said a number of four- and five-star hotels were engaged in multimillion euro refurbishments in order to compete with the best in the world but smaller owner-run properties were lagging behind.

She said the upturn in the economy had triggered a problem in that rising prices had not led to improved standards.

“Not that poor value for money is restricted to any particular category,” she said.

“Again this year, some of our worst experiences have been in four- and five-star hotels, something to think about for management in those hotels . . . as sumptuous premises will fail to impress unless the standard of food, staff and service matches the surroundings,” she said.

She said many parts of the country were seeing new openings with an increase in tea rooms, cafes and brasseries as the trend for informal dining continued.

Fine dining continued to thrive, she said, as her team had experienced “really excellent traditional fine dining”.

“Outstanding examples we have enjoyed this year include fine dining without the fuss, ie meals where the cooking has real finesse but the service style is quite relaxed,” she said.

WINNERS

Hotel of the Year: Gregans Castle, Co Clare

Restaurant of the Year: James St South, Belfast

Chef of the Year: Dylan McGrath

“Just Ask” Bord Bia Restaurant of the Year: Rua, Castlebar

Taste of the Waterways Award: Larkin’s, GarryKennedy, Co Tipperary

Seafood Restaurant of the Year: La Cote, Wexford

Outstanding Guest Experience: The Mustard Seed, Co Limerick

Host of the Year: Declan Maxwell, Luna, Dublin

Business Hotel of the Year: Radisson Blu Royal Hotel, Dublin

Pub of the Year: MacCarthy’s Bar, Castletownbere, Co Cork

Wine Award of the Year: Stanley’s, Dublin

Newcomer of the Year: Maisons, Rostrevor, Co Down

Family Friendly Restaurant: Stonecutters Kitchen, Doolin, Co Clare

Pet-friendly Hotel of the Year: Lough Inagh Lodge, Co Galway

Hideaway of the Year: Bervie, Achill Island, Co Mayo

Casual Dining of the Year: Isaacs Restaurant, Cork

Atmospheric Restaurant of the Year: Bodega, Waterford

Ethnic Restaurant of the Year: RAW, Galway

Cafe of the Year: Teach Nan Phaidai, Aran Islands

Natural Food Award: Arbutus Bread

Country House of the Year: Temple House, Sligo

Farmhouse of the Year: Trean House, Co Donegal

B&B of the Year: Strandeen, Portstewart, Co Derry

Hotel Breakfast of the Year: Gregans Castle, Co Clare

Country House Breakfast of the Year: Temple House, Sligo

Guesthouse Breakfast of the Year: Greenmount House, Dingle, Co Kerry

B&B Breakfast of the Year: Strandeen, Co Derry

Guesthouse of the Year: Greenmount House, Dingle, Co Kerry