Ham it upFOOD: THERE ARE CERTAIN dishes and flavours that can hurl you back in time. We rarely eat buttered crackers as grown-ups, but for myself, buttered Matzo crackers instantly remind me of chicken noodle soup and pretending to be sick so I could avoid school.
Food fileHot Italian sausage : Francesco Mazzei, chef at London restaurant L’Anima, which had the famously hard-to-please UK critics singing harmoniously from the same, very complimentary songsheet when it opened in 2008, has succeeded River Café graduate Theo Randall as guest chef at the Pizza Express and Milano chain of restaurants.
Recipes »
Wild about mushroomsFOOD: LOTS OF FOOD writers complain about the fact that “wild” mushrooms is a bit of a false term for what are in fact, fancier versions of cultivated mushrooms. There is nothing very wild about the mushrooms we buy in vegetable shops; if anything they should be called exotic, but cultivated, not-so-wild, mushrooms. Hmm.
The path of good intentionsThe remnants of festive excess are long gone, so it’s time for lean ingredients to get you back on the straight and narrow, writes DOMINI KEMP
Features »
- Step up to the plate
MONITOR: A Cork event aims to re-introduce the Irish diner to the Irish farmer, writes HUGO ARNOLD
In a real pickleMONITOR: WHAT ON EARTH do you do with a pickle? Enjoy it might be the obvious answer, but for Sanjay Vishwakarma, head chef at Rasam in Dún Laoghaire, Co Dublin, there is far, far more than that to be considered. It’s all about balance, he tells me, but for now we are busy chopping and grating limes. I am standing in his kitchen, which is utterly spotless. I don’t say this easily (many restaurant kitchens are not), but you wouldn’t even know this kitchen served Indian food, it is that clean. Perhaps the tandoori oven gives it away, but not much else.
Wine »
The Australian aristocracyA new Australian wine coalition will expose the world to the country’s traditional family wineries, writes JOHN WILSON
German wines with a Gaelic twistThe secret to Würzburg wines is look for the words Stein or Leiste on the labels
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