Walk for the weekend: Journeying in bandit country

Once upon a time in the Comeragh Mountains there lived a rapparee named William Crotty. Defiant role-models are much appreciated in times when ordinary people feel oppressed and so it is perhaps unsurprising, that Crotty quickly morphed into a quixotic 18th-century hero. In the best Robin Hood tradition, he robbed the rich to help the poor, but apparently also retained some cash for expenses. Local legend holds that this hoard still awaits a lucky finder somewhere amid the Comeragh fastness. Indeed, this could be a propitious day for me as I intend exploring Waterford’s Crotty country, while, of course, keeping a discreet eye out for the merest glitter of gold.

Setting out in generous spring sunshine, I follow a farm track uphill past a glimmer of early flowering primroses. Abandoning the path near a gate, I strike out across open mountainside. A shoulder leading towards a pair of great pinnacles beckons on the left and I begin ascending. Expansive views over the magnificently serene Crotty’s Lake now help to grease the wheels of my ascent until I reach the spectacular viewing point at Crotty’s Rock where the outlaw is reputed to have kept watch for hostile forces. In such an eventuality, plan B was apparently a retreat to a claustrophobic cave on the opposite side of the lake where all the advantages lay with a defender.

Betrayed by an accomplice, Crotty was hanged in Waterford in 1742 and in a final melodramatic denouement, his wife jumped to her death from the rocks where I now stand. Perhaps, she might have been better advised to scramble instead through an aperture in the pinnacle behind, for legend holds that those doing so are guaranteed marriage within 12 months.

Contouring south, I cross the busy little stream of Iske Sullas, which drops in cascades that have carved deeply attractive gorges into the underlying bedrock. Next stop is the great cliffs that overlook the undoubted show-pony for Ireland’s glaciated coums. Few cliches remain unhackneyed in describing the glory of Coumshingaun, so rather than risk adding more, I will merely mention that my eye is immediately drawn to a substantial rockfall near the northwest corner of the lake. Here, fallen boulders have created a cave system, where reputedly Crotty, found a hiding place for his horses, all of which had been shod in reverse to confuse pursuing redcoats.

Next, I strike northwest across a featureless plateau to gain the cliffs guarding the Comeraghs most secluded coum. Below are three enchanting little lakes, while beyond the glacial moraines, the countryside rolls away picturesquely towards Curraheen. Here, it is suggested by some that Crotty’s hoard lies secreted beneath an isolated rock and that on occasion his ghost is to be seen searching on horseback for this lost treasure.

If Crotty cannot find his hoard it seems unlikely that I will, so ruefully I move west to return to the cliffs above Crotty’s Lake and soon after the lookout of the eponymous outlaw. From here I retrace my steps to the parking place while reflecting that I should be only half surprised were a ghostly rider to suddenly appear from the gathering evening mist.

Walk: Crotty’s Walk, Comeragh Mountains

Getting there: From Carrick-on-Suir take the R676 Dungarvan Road. At Gr 35057 13367 follow a minor road right. Park with consideration at a large entrance on the left.

Suitability: Demanding walk requiring reasonable fitness. Navigation skills necessary, as the route follows high mountain terrain.

Time: 4 hours.

Map: OSi, sheet 75