Cheery concoctions

Wine can be made from fruit, herbs, flowers and pretty much anything edible that grows in gardens and hedgerows

 Left to right: Glasses of homemade rhubarb and hawthorn wine,haw wine, sloe gin, strawberry liqueur, dandelion wine, blackberry wine. Photograph: Richard Johnston

Left to right: Glasses of homemade rhubarb and hawthorn wine,haw wine, sloe gin, strawberry liqueur, dandelion wine, blackberry wine. Photograph: Richard Johnston

Sat, Nov 23, 2013, 01:00

Hic. I confess to writing this in a state of mild and pleasant inebriation, having just spent an enjoyable hour in my neighbour’s kitchen sampling her impressive “cellar” of homemade wines and liqueurs, all based on ingredients either harvested from her garden or foraged from local hedgerows.

I now know that damson wine is the colour of garnets and is sweet, rich and earthy, whereas one made from the pale spring blossoms of the hawthorn or May bush is golden in hue and not unlike a sherry. Strawberry liqueur, on the other hand, tastes of sun-soaked June days and is the colour of flamingoes. As for homemade elderberry wine, I’d describe it as deep, dark and fruity, without being overly heavy, with a flavour that speaks of the early autumn hedgerows where those inky berries once grew.

The same goes for the light, dry and fragrant blackberry wine I sampled, as well as the amber-coloured one made from scarlet haws, a fresh batch of which I spotted gently fermenting in glass demi-johns nearby. As for the rhubarb and hawthorn wine that my neighbour also gave me to taste, I wish I could remember more. Just as well, perhaps, that I drew the line at sampling the sloe gin which smelled of wild, mountainous places, or the blackcurrant cassis which was the colour of a midnight sky.

Up until today, my opinion of homemade wines had been jaundiced by the vivid memory of a week-long hangover caused, many years ago, by drinking my mother’s homemade elderflower wine; an elderly batch we’d been warned not to imbibe and which was so potent and so strangely hallucinogenic in its properties that after a few glasses, I was convinced the family cat was engaging me in conversation. Various friends who sampled the same wine still speak of it in hushed tones to this day.

But enough said. When they are well made, homemade wines (see how I stress the “well made” bit) are a revelation – smooth, subtle, very drinkable, and a lovely way to sip the seasons from a glass.

It’s not just fruit, berries or flowers that can be used in this way but also many different vegetables, although some are more suitable than others. For example, I’ve never known anyone who’s actually tasted it to speak highly of wine made from peas or beans, despite many recipes promising the contrary. But the same can’t be said of parsnips, which are used to make one of the very best (and strongest) homemade white wines, or even to make a dry sherry.

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