Walk for the weekend: The wilderness of Bunnafreeva, Achill Island

We don't much associate wildernesses with Ireland these days, though our distant Irish ancestors would have known them all too well. For us, they come from far away, mostly via our TVs, from Alaska, Norway, Central Asia and maybe even Scotland. However, Ireland does have a truly special little wilderness, hidden away in the north-west corner of our own beautiful Achill Island.

North of a line from Dugort to Keem Beach, there are more than 25km of inaccessible coastline, backed by pristine wild loughs, headlands, hills and mountains, even one lonely and lovely beach. It’s a land largely unseen and unvisited (except perhaps by hill farmers) and it is one of Ireland’s best kept secrets.

It has come to us as God, the millennia and the elements have shaped it. And all because, to get in there, really to feel it, requires serious planning, commitment and a tough two-day walk.

We went in August, to test our backpacking gear and legs for the Tour de Mont Blanc in September. We left Dugort early on Saturday, paced ourselves to the misty summit of Slievemore (672m), always a magical vantage point for the visual wonders of the west coast. To the west, at the end of Achill, lies beautiful but sullen Croughaun (688m), for me the moodiest mountain in Ireland; unlike Slievemore, its brooding bulk is sulkily turned away from the land, while its western face and open arms seem to welcome the ravages of wild Atlantic winds and waves.

For us that day though, while descending Slievemore, it briefly lifted its wide veil, allowing us to see beyond its ramparts and into our destination – its "lost land" of loughs, eroding moraines, undisturbed heathery hills and ragged shores. Sheltered Annagh Strand seduced us for a hangout and swim, and gave us renewed energy for an easy hike to the hushed shore of the westermost Lough Nakeeroge.

We camped where it’s little outlet stream begins its dramatic cascade to the sea, had a meal and just quietly savoured the subtle sights, sounds and feel of a magical place.

A Sunday breakfast of midges and muesli dissipated our overnight idyll, and hurried us away for a brief hangout on nearby Saddle Head, probably the remotest headland in Ireland. From there, it was on up and over a misty Croughaun, pausing at high Bunnafreeva West (318m). Its elemental beauty, however, may be short-lived as Atlantic wave-spray and weather systems weaken the soft moraine plug which underpins its high perch.

Descending Croughaun, we were literally stopped in our tracks by the sudden opening of a truly enthralling vista – Achill Head and our western islands, with Bills Rocks taking centre stage in a pewter sea. And, after a refreshing swim, and an ice-cream cone in Keem, we bade au revoir to a special place.

BUNNAFREEVA, ACHILL ISLAND, CO MAYO
Map: OSI Sheet 30.
Start: Dugort Pier, north coast.
Finish: Keem Beach.
Suitability: high level of fitness, experience and excellent navigation skills essential.