Seasonal Suppers: sorrel

The lemon of the north. I wonder have your ever heard that phrase before? Of course, I'm not talking about any exotic fruit. The phrase refers to simple common sorrel. The delicate acidity in sorrel marries beautifully with fish. You can pick up sorrel in the supermarket and in the forest. I've also found it on a cliff top in Co Cork, when I went foraging with Darina Allen many moons ago.

The most beautiful months to forage in are between May and September. This is our tradition and heritage. It is not a trend. It is a way of living that can reconnect us with our landscape. Planting sorrel is great fun too. Something to do with the kids. It’s very spicy, says my little girl Martha (she always thinks acidic or slightly sour things are “spicy”).

Sorrel does not take well to cooking. If you blanch it, it will turn brown. I like to make a nice sorrel purée with some organic baby spinach. Blanch your spinach in boiling water and then refresh in ice water. Blend with a little water and add sorrel. Continue to blend until smooth.

Sorrel and lamb are two of my favourite things to combine. The crisp acidity of the sorrel cuts wonderfully through the richness of the meat. A nice portion of pink lamb will match a nice smooth volume of the above sorrel purée. Add a few additional leave for flavour. For breakfast, you can make a nice sorrel sauce to go with your poached eggs.

In a small pot, reduce 30ml of white wine, 30ml white wine vinegar and 100ml of fish stock with a little chopped onion and thyme. Reduce until only a little liquid remains. Melt 240ml of butter in a pot. Blend a handful of sorrel with the warm butter. Add the strained remains of the other liquid. In a food processor, add two egg and mix at high speed. Gradually add the butter and emulsify into the eggs. Don’t let the butter get too cold. Enjoy with your poached eggs and maybe some free-range bacon.