Lilly Higgins: A savoury start to the school year

We always made queen cakes, now known as cupcakes or buns, when we were little. Helping to place the paper cases in the trays and throwing in handfuls of sultanas were my favourite things to do. It’s ritualistic and familiar.

The smell of dried fruit soaking in tea for brack takes me right back to when I was five, helping to stir the batter and make a wish. Baking can be nostalgic like that. It can evoke all kinds of emotions. Each time our oven is humming and flour gets dusted all over the kitchen floor as my kids help to weigh out ingredients, we are creating memories.

Now that my eldest has started primary school, we need to prioritise the packed lunch. Like most four-year-olds, he has his preferences. A lunchbox full of cake would be his ideal sustenance but instead we have had to choose from his favourite healthy foods.

It’s fantastic that his school is encouraging healthy lunches. At the moment he packs gherkins, pomegranate, a sandwich and dried apple rings. Almost anything can find its way into his lunchbox, but I’ve had to hide the pungent pickled onions.

Lately he has really been enjoying these savoury muffins. They’re a lovely alternative to sandwiches, even though they have much the same ingredients.

I use this basic muffin recipe as a vehicle for other flavours. A swirl of pesto or tapenade in each is divine or some chopped semi-sun-dried tomatoes. Herbs such as oregano, thyme and a little rosemary are ideal here. Use strong-flavoured cheese or these will turn out like bland little breads. Any leftover pieces of Parmesan can be added, or you could crumble a little feta on top just before baking.

I use chives for a classic cheese-and-onion flavour. They’re quite subtle but give a great fresh taste. Sautéed red onion is lovely, too, or a few tablespoons of red onion marmalade.

I’ve used rye flour here for a change. It gives a slightly denser crumb with great flavour and texture. I like to use different flours when I can, instead of always using plain white. Each different type lends its own flavours and characteristics. Spelt is lovely and light for savoury muffins, too. You can of course use plain flour if you want.

This muffin mix can be doubled successfully or baked in a tin for a savoury loaf. There is something so pleasing about individual portions, however.

These light little muffins freeze really well once fully cooled. You can place them into the lunchbox frozen and they will be defrosted by lunchtime. They’re delicious for dinner, too, alongside bowls of creamy tomato soup or chowder.