Taste of rolling hills, windswept isles

The Scots not only created some of the best-known brands, but also a whole range of high-end limited production whiskies

Let other poets raise a fracas Bout vines, an’ wines, an’ drucken Bacchus, An’ crabbit names an’stories wrack us,

An' grate our lug: I sing the juice Scotch bear can mak us, In glass or jug. Robert Burns, Scotch Drink

We may not like it but the words Scotch and whisky are synonymous around the world. We invented it, but allowed them to take the original recipe a very short distance across the North Channel to Scotland.

It cannot be a coincidence that the islands of Islay and Jura, as well as Campbeltown, producers of some of Scotland’s finest whisky, can be clearly seen from Northern Ireland.

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It is probably no coincidence either that many of the distilleries of Scotland were located on distant islands or tucked away in mountainous villages away from the prying eyes of the law (the other deciding factor was proximity to a source of pure water).

These producers form our image of the classic Scottish distillery, a small warehouse nestling by a gushing river, or by the sea on windswept, rain-soaked islands.

Irish whiskey is catching up, but for the moment, it still cannot match the sheer range and variety of Scotch whisky. Over the last century it has become the drink of choice around the world. The Scots not only created some of the best-known brands, but also a whole range of high-end limited production whiskies. The initial success of Scotch is down to the industrial revolution, and the development of large factories dedicated to mass-production of blended whisky.

Made from a blend of malt whisky bought from one of the smaller Highland distilleries with a lot of inexpensive grain whisky produced in a continuous still, this cheap whisky slaked the thirst of factory workers and, in time, allowed the same large producers conquer the world with the brands that we know so well today. Some connoisseurs turn their noses up at blended whisky, but they take a great level of skill to create and some can be very good.

If blended whisky provides the volume behind Scotch, the luxury niche products are malts and specifically single malts, although these days many single malts are made in significant quantity. A malt whisky is distilled exclusively from malted barley (as opposed to other grains), generally in a pot still. A single malt is from one specific distillery.

At one stage, all Highland whisky was malt, but was always blended with other whisky. In the 1960’s one distillery after another began to produce pure single malt whisky and consumers all around the world lapped them up.

Since then every company has started releasing all manner of high-end whiskies, of varying strength, with various wood finishes and of different ages. The available range is quite phenomenal, as are some of the prices.

The flavours in a whisky are determined by many factors, some local, such as water and geography. It is said that the distinctive iodine flavour of Islay and other island malt whiskies can be explained by their proximity to the sea.

Lowland malts from the rolling hills south of Edinburgh are said to be softer and more mellow due to the warmer climate.

However, the dominant flavours of any whisky are down to how it was made and aged. The pervasive smoky aromas of peat (used to dry barley) dominate many malt whiskies, those from Islay in particular. The use of bourbon, port and sherry casks to age a whisky, as well as the level of toast, and the age will all contribute to the end product.

The flavours found in whisky are myriad – if you think wine tasting notes are floral, just compare with descriptions of whisky. They include smoke, nuts, toffee, caramel, tobacco, honey, spice, fruits, flowers and even winey.

Traditionally Scotch was drunk in gentlemen’s clubs or by the draughty fireside of a Scottish castle.

The new scotch drinker, however, is more likely to be a young male graduate, who knows his subject intimately. You can add your whisky to cocktails, but to appreciate the finest Scotch, a little water, or possibly a cube of ice is strongly recommended.

Today we celebrate Scottish whisky with four very different spirits, three regional and one very famous blend.

jwilson@irishtimes.com