It’s time to open the autumn reds

I received several optimistic emails from wine retailers this morning, one offering the last of the summer wine, the other hoping for an Indian summer. Sadly the weather has turned and I have started to look for a little warming solace rather than summery whites.

There is a chill in the air, and a distinct whiff of decay too. Autumn smells of wood smoke and mushrooms, and decomposition. The French call it sous-bois. It is time to put on the jumper, go for long walks and kick leaves. We dress and eat seasonally so it makes perfect sense to drink in the same way. It doesn’t mean we cannot drink white wines, although around this time of year I usually choose those with a bit more weight and texture. We will look at these in a week or two. But rosés are definitely out, and my consumption of red wine certainly increases.

It may be cool, but we are still way off the bitter cold of January. Cozy fires and cozy wines lie in the future. I still haven’t hauled out the Le Creuset casserole that has lain unused and unloved in the cupboard for the past three months; those rich beef stews can wait another few weeks, as can the powerful, full-bodied red wines to accompany them. Early- and mid-autumn call for something medium-bodied and slightly earthy, warming but not too muscular. Around 14 per cent is ideal, but the texture and feel of the fruit are equally important.

It is not just my wine choices that change. I eat differently, too. Despite the availability of things all year round, I still try to eat seasonally, saving treats such as asparagus for May and June and strawberries for the summer months. So here are four of my favourite autumn dishes that I only start dreaming about once the weather takes a turn, and my ideal wines to accompany them.

During the summer I might have the occasional risotto primavera, a great way to use the frustratingly small handfuls of different vegetables from the garden. But for me, there is nothing more autumnal than mushroom risotto. I don’t come across wild mushrooms very often so mine is usually made with flat cap and chestnut mushrooms and a good chicken stock. With it, I would nearly always go for a Pinot Noir, preferably slightly earthy in style, which means from France and with a little maturity if possible. The Domaine de l’Aigle below would do very nicely. If your taste runs to Italy, a Barbera or Dolcetto from Piemonte would be equally good.

A nice thick pork chop with some of the last local tomatoes, slow-roasted and served with Puy lentils, has a distinctly autumnal air about it. Here I would look for a wine with some structure and drying tannins to offset the richness of the pork. South-west France offers a few great options, including Cahors and Madiran. However, I came across the first wine listed below in my local Donnybrook Fair shop and it went down a treat with my pork.

It is open season for many game birds now, although pheasant and partridge are still a few weeks off. I am a big fan of plainly roasted wild duck. With these you can dig out your finest medium-bodied red wines. Pinot Noir would be my favourite again but any good mature red will do. This week a delicious Crozes-Hermitage at an amazing price. Light enough to drink on its own, this has a lovely leafy edge that makes it a good candidate for anything feathered.

All sorts of gourds start to appear in the shops now. Roasted with other autumnal vegetables, something off-dry to match the sweetness of squash would be a good drink, such as a Pinot Gris from Alsace or a Chenin Blanc, either from the Loire Valley or South Africa.

However, we are talking about red wines this week, and I recently made some butternut squash ravioli with plenty of Pecorino cheese. With it, a Barbera from Piemonte struck a perfect note. Marks & Spencer has a good one for €11.99, and SuperValu has the Ricossa Barbera at around the same price. The Bera Barbera d’Asti below from Wines Direct is a step up in quality and price.

A final treat: once ripe pears are available, a few slices with blue cheese (Crozier or Roquefort work best) and a chilled glass of something sweet is a great way to top off any autumn feast.