Donal Skehan ... how to explain Irish food to an American

Our columnist says having arrived back in Ireland recently it’s the food he missed most


A couple of weeks ago, while sitting on the set of a TV studio in New York, I found myself chatting with a well-known chef. The topic of Irish food inevitably came around. “I’ve heard it’s not great, right?” she said.

With a mix of Irish pride and incredulity that news of our culinary brilliance had not reached her yet, I felt duty bound to tell her about what makes Ireland’s new and established food scene so brilliant. The producers, the quality of the ingredients, the traditional recipes, and the buzzing restaurant and cafe scene were all part of my pitch. She looked intrigued, and I suggested that a visit was the only way to prove my point.

I believe that Irish food, the good stuff, is of course best appreciated on the green isle. I know this to be true because no amount of replication abroad does it justice.

Having arrived back in Ireland recently after some time in the US, it's the food I've missed most. Butter that is rich and yellow, the treat of finding a treasure of artisan cheese, and without a doubt my morning porridge, something I never thought I would miss but just didn't quite get round to eating on Venice beach.

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Despite Los Angeles having an endless supply of new food inspiration and adventures, and it's own army of small producers, I can't help but get nostalgic for Irish food. It's the taste of home.

I recently travelled around Ireland photographing some of our best artisan food producers. From rugged coastlines to lush countryside, it’s difficult not be wowed by the stunning scenery which plays a leading role in the stories of each of the makers I met. Seasonality, pride and provenance; all key points of difference which make our culinary offering special.

While Sofie and I prepare to head back to LA, the stimulus for the recipes here come with all of this in mind. It’s a humble, but delicious, seasonal Irish feast.