Culinaria: Hay is not just for horses

Although many restaurants have it on the menu, cooking with hay is an ancient process

Most people would likely turn their noses up at a steaming bowl of hay soup. Hay is for horses, isn’t it? Cooking with hay is an ancient process. Though you would think, given the amount of restaurants now using hay on their menu, that it’s a recent trend.

The Normans in Ireland boiled their hams in hay and water. The tannic quality in hay not only added an earthy flavour but helped preserve the ham for longer. Ancient farmers stored their vegetables in hay boxes; that way they could have fresh vegetables months after they were picked. Kept in a cool, dark and dry space, the hay would keep them from rotting.

As well as cooking ham in hay, many tribes in Ireland would roast their lamb with hay. Though it may seem that we are light years away now with our rosemary and garlic, a quick search on the internet reveals that many chefs are still baking lamb with hay. (So much for recent trends.) I recently came across a wonderful lamb recipe with hay and lavender. Prick the leg with a knife a few times and insert some lavender sprigs into the lamb. Season with sea salt. Dress with some extra virgin rapeseed oil and lay on a few handfuls of hay in a suitable oven dish. Make sure the lamb is at room temperature before you put it in the oven. Roast for two hours and then rest for 30 minutes. As I’ve said before, the resting is just as important as the cooking.

This dish is beautiful to serve on to the table in front of your family or friends. Don’t forget to give them the history lesson about cooking with hay.

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But back to our soup. Hay soup was originally served by a Russian woman in the 19th century seeking to feed the starving serfs. In a teapot, place a chopped onion, a bay leaf and a handful of hay. Pour in boiling water and allow to infuse for 10 minutes. Serve. Somehow, I still feel hungry.