Culinaria: Celeriac and bacon soup

January is a cold time of year. It’s a month that appeals to all that comfort food our bodies desire in the wake of inclement weather.

Bizarrely enough, most of us starve ourselves in the first month of the year because of the colossal amount of food we consume over Christmas. Miserable low-calorie dishes, such as steamed chicken and bitter leaves grace our table in the evening. We go to bed sad.

While I am certainly not advocating over-eating, it is important during chilly months to keep up our consumption of warm and wholesome foods. Soups are a great way of achieving this brief. For people with busy lives they can be prepared Sunday evening, portioned and then placed in the fridge (I’d keep fresh soup for three days) or freezer.

While there seems to be an absolute craze for bone broths at the moment, my idea of a hearty soup has to include two essential ingredients: dairy and chicken stock. By dairy I mean butter and cream. Of course, there are plenty of summer soups I make without dairy but winter is a cold time and the body needs good fats to insulate itself.

It goes without saying that Irish butter is the best in the world. My favourite is Cuinneog, a handmade butter from Co Mayo.

Celeriac soup appeals to one’s winter senses, perhaps because of its rich earthy character. A little bacon goes a long way: when added to celeriac soup its sends its creamy lushness to another level.

To make the soup, I simply fry off some chopped onion and garlic in some butter and a little oil. When caramelised, I add the diced celeriac and season with some sea salt. Fry for a moment, then cover with some chicken stock. Simmer until soft, then add 250ml of cream. Bring back to the boil then remove from the heat. Blend and strain through a sieve for added smoothness. Serve warm with some crispy bacon pieces scatted over the top. JP McMahon