How to crack the three most common dress codes

The words “dress code” can cause equal amounts of excitement and fear. Excitement in that it’s an opportunity to break out that favourite dress you don’t often have a reason to wear, but also a fear that not you’re not going to hit the right style mark.

Hosts are generally crystal-clear about the purpose of the event and the date, time and location, but can often be less helpful about what to wear. And dress-code briefs on invites can be sartorial puzzles to be solved.

But what do they actually mean and does it mean the same thing to everyone? Even in celeb land, where they have squads of stylists on hand, dress codes can cause bother: Lewis Hamilton was turned away from Wimbledon for not observing the jacket and tie rule and female guests were reportedly refused entry to the red carpet in Cannes because they weren't wearing heels. (Which is a whole other bowl of wrong for another day.)

Luckily, there has been a freeing-up of dress-code rules in recent times, even at this year's Met Ball, traditionally a formal event, where a handful of attendees – including Taylor Swift, Michelle Williams and Alicia Vikander – opted for above-the-knee hems. Perhaps it's the desire to break free of traditionally longer lengths required for black-tie dress codes or maybe it's about making a striking style statement that is guaranteed column inches. Or it could just be about the freedom of movement that a shorter style brings.

Whatever it signifies, you can safely relax and know you won’t be exiled from your friend’s wedding for wearing an above-the-knee dress to a black-tie do. Still, it is good to know what the codes call for, as the secret to perfecting the daunting terminology lies in allowing it to inform rather than dictate your outfit choice.

Skirt the dress code with confidence and class, while stretching the fashion rules. If you are going to have fun with a dress code, the creativity lies in how you interpret it, so be interesting with your choices: think texture, colour, print and statement silhouettes. Instead of stressing over the vocabulary, we have deciphered the most common dress codes, what they mean and what you should wear.

BLACK TIE
What it means: Formal: black tie usually means tuxedos and full-length gowns.
What you should wear: Women can wear anything from a floor-length dress to an elegant shorter dress; just keep it below the knee and use your accessories to amp it up. Don't be afraid of colour; it doesn't have to be black. The overall effect should be formal but with a bit of flair.

For men, dark suits are an alternative if you don’t own a tux, but make sure you style your suit with a dress shirt and subtle printed tie.

SMART CASUAL
What it means: There are no rules. However, think "Sunday best": the event is not formal but requires a bit of effort.
What you should wear: This most confusing of all the dress codes. The key is to add polish to your outfit with statement accessories. The crucial element to smart casual is dressing for the season, so as long as you look weather-appropriate and pulled together, most looks will flatter the code.

For men, denim, chinos or suit pants with a shirt or dressed up T-shirt. No tie required.

COCKTAIL
What it means: A notch below black tie on the formality totem pole. Cocktail attire usually means a party dress and men in suits.
What you should wear: Smart and special, and a little more opulent that your usual Saturday-night style. Hems can be short or midi. If in doubt go for an LBD, but a sleek skirt-and-top combo or a jumpsuit are also an option. Bring texture and colour to the fore.
For men, a classic suit with a white shirt and smart shoes. You can add some flair with a pocket square and printed tie.