Denim disciples: your time is now

Denim, the hardest-working of materials, is enoying a perpetual fashion ‘moment’

Hard working, hard-wearing; tight-fitting, bum-lifting: denim has a can-do attitude. It’s little wonder that this humble fabric is so ubiquitous and so well-loved that every competitive slot for the next series of

Mastermind

could be filled by competitive denim specialists.

Monki denim trenchcoat €65

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Denim, like coffee, is an icon of universal consumption. Everyone and their granny owns at least one pair of jeans. Denim attracts a subset of the human race who are obsessive; their fashion lives revolve around denim, and they make little sense to those who carry on their lives outside the blue jean vacuum.

Serge de Nîmes has always been a saviour. The original Levi Strauss – he of Levi’s jeans fame – had an idea while working as a dry goods merchant during the Californian Gold Rush of the early 1850s. He would tailor a range of unbreakable trousers from his existing stock of rough tent canvas. The resulting canvas trousers were far too chafing even for the most grizzled prospector, and Strauss substituted the canvas for serge de Nîmes, a hardy, indigo-dyed cotton twill material.

Through the passage of more than a century and a half, and denim's chequered history as the textile of choice for cowboys and rebellious teenagers, it eventually became a fashion statement. In 1932, 80 years after its first sale, Levi's introduced jeans for ladies. In 1935, Vogue featured jeans in its pages for the first time.

Denim dealers and street stylers now live their lives through the simple blue cloth, ferreting out the newest and best Japanese brands, debating the merits of washed versus unwashed, dyed versus overdyed.

Penneys vest top €9

So strong is the material’s hold that it should come as no surprise that denim is the most popular fabric of the season so far.

Jeans and jackets are still in high demand but, for spring and summer, denim is planning an almost hostile takeover. Now lining the shops are denim dresses, T-shirts, coats, bags, hats and even shoes. Almost every colour is available, just as long as it’s blue; from light and bright Columbia blue to darker, vivid ceruleans and ultramarines.

Nobody should restrict themselves to just a humdrum pair of indigo skinny jeans when there are so many options available: 1970s-style fades flares will add balance and proportion to slightly taller, womanly frames, while the ruffles and frills of Simone Rocha’s J Brand denim will add a little emphasis to hips where there was none before.

J brand by Simone Rocha ruffle jeans €315

It’s not just jeans that are hovering in the public’s eyeline, however. More 1970s style again; this time it’s ironically mumsy button-down dresses and skirts. When buying these, be careful to temper the stiff material to your body shape. While these shapes look good on straight-up-and- down body types, they can look at little frumpy on others. The Zara dress featured has a nipped-in waist, so will be flattering on more curvy women, while the Top Shop midi-skirt will need some careful pairings. Tuck a top into the high waist, or cinch a belt over the final ensemble to maintain a sense of proportion.

Topshop midi skirt €42

Simple, boxy shapes in light denim are great for summer’s rising temperatures, as the thin cotton will keep you cool. The cornflower blue Top Shop minidress has cutout shoulders for an interesting twist on a straightforward shape, while denim gives a new lease of life to a Penneys vest.

Topshop denim cutout shoulder dress €46

Look outside the high street for new inspiration. Swedish brand Monki is reworking denim in trench coats and bucket hats that act as excellent cover-ups for brisk weather (just don’t get them wet).

Monki bucket hat €15

At the higher price end, denim pieces from the likes of Ashish and Sibling are given a luxe lease of life with embellishment; sequins and embroidery add decadence to this workhorse fabric.

Sibling denim T €228 available at net-a-porter.com

Don't be afraid to double up on denim, just don't match a jacket to jeans. The B*Witched look, unfortunately, has yet to make a comeback. But we're crossing our fingers.