Eat, drink and be merry

A guide to the best pubs, eateries and entertainments in Galway city

MAKING THE TRIP to the city of Tribes for some comedy and wondering where to do all the other things Galway is famous for – the eating, the drinking, the craic? In truth, it’s hard not to have fun in Galway, but here are some pointers to set you on the right track.

EAT

For a long time, Galway was curiously short of quality restaurants, but that has thankfully changed in recent years. Ard Bia at Nimmo’s is one of the most beloved eateries in the city, offering great locally sourced food in the beautiful old stone boathouse at the Spanish Arch. Its former spot above Neachtain’s pub at the corner of Quay Street and Cross Street has been filled by Artisan, also praised for its, well, artisanal food, unsurprisingly. Quay Street is very much Galway’s tourism centre, and there are quite a few eateries offering a range of cuisines, but one of the most venerable is Fat Freddy’s, the offbeat pizzeria that has given the street so much of its character for 20 odd years now.

Over at the Docks, Bar Eight has established itself as one of the coolest dining venues in town, with a fine menu of locally sourced food, and regular jazz sessions for that crucial ambience.

DRINK

Galway’s thirsty reputation is hard-earned, and there is no shortage of public houses with a traditional atmosphere. Neachtain’s is the most famed, and in many ways embodies Galway’s bohemian attitude – whether sitting outside on the street or inside in a snug, it’s about the most character-filled pub in the city. Just up the street, though, are two wonderful alternatives in Freeney’s and Murphy’s – fine supping in traditional surroundings. Up in Eyre Square, O’Connell’s has been rejuvenated, with traditional sitting rooms and an expansive beer garden having been added to the trademark front bar.

Large, loud and usually packed bars populate the Quay Street/Cross Street area, with the Front Door, the Dail Bar, Busker Brownes, the Townhouse, Kelly’s and of course the Quay’s Bar itself offering Galway’s take on the superpub.

The city’s nightlife increasingly gravitates around a few bars over in the Dominick Street area, where Massimo’s, the Blue Note and Bierhaus offer a more contemporary vibe, and a great range of international brews, in the latter’s case.

BE MERRY

The merriment at a comedy festival should probably be the responsibility of the comedians, but if you want some entertainment in other forms, there’s no shortage of possibilities.

Galway might not have the same reputation as Doolin or Dingle for trad music, but its position as gateway to Connemara and the Aran Islands means there’s no shortage of quality players, many of whom play in the nightly trad sessions in Taaffe’s and Tig Cóilí on Shop Street and Mainguard Street, and the Crane Bar on Sea Road. Nothing like a few jigs and reels to get the blood flowing.

If trad isn’t quite your music of first resort, there are no shortage of rock and indie venues. The Róisin Dubh, of course, has transformed the city’s live music reputation (when it’s not hosting stand-up hilarity, that is). Nearby Monroe’s also hosts regular gigs upstairs.

And finally, consider the most quintessential Galway activity walk of all – the cherished walk along Salthill prom. It can be bracing, it can be drenching, it can be surprisingly long if you’re feeling rough, but when you kick the stone wall at the far end, you’re gonna feel well and truly alive.