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  • irishtimes.com - Posted: October 21, 2009 @ 11:50 am

    Trying to see beyond my ghetto

    Bryan

    Malone Road, in the vicinity of Queen’s University Belfast. Photograph: Bryan Mukandi.

    Malone Road, in the vicinity of Queen’s University Belfast. Photograph: Bryan Mukandi.

    Integration. I don’t think I’d heard that word as frequently as when I first moved to Ireland. ‘Integration’ seemed to be the word around which the country’s entire strategy on immigration, and a growing multiculturalism, would hinge. But for all that the word was thrown around, I don’t think anyone really knew what it meant, or how one goes about integrating. I suppose the civil servants who plucked it out of a dictionary – or more likely some other country’s policy paper – I suppose they decided the immigrants would figure it out.

    I’m having to figure out how to integrate all over again. Being an ‘international student’ at Queen’s (a category that officially includes citizens of the Republic of Ireland) is an interesting experience. It only takes days to be ‘integrated’ into the university community. It seems as though the area surrounding the university was purpose built for students. So without much effort, you can be part of a vibrant community that is predominantly populated by other students. It all leads, I think, to a very posh version of the ghettoisation that Irish policy-makers sought to avoid by promoting ‘integration’.

    I’m sure there are plenty of local students with dual citizenship. They get to be part of the posh ‘ghetto’ as well as living in the real world of Northern Ireland, posh or otherwise. For the average international student, that is seldom the case. Yesterday, someone suggested that I go on a Belfast bus tour if I want to see the ‘real Belfast’. My response was that I don’t like doing the tourist thing and would prefer to learn about the city and its inhabitants as they really are. At which point, a local guy told me that the closest I would get to knowing the city beyond ‘the ghetto’ would be the bus tour.

    Because of what is probably a sense of inadequacy, I don’t think of myself as a journalist. Having said that, I have the privilege of writing for a fantastic newspaper. And I spend most of my time in Belfast. It seems to me that the logical thing would therefore be to engage with the city and learn more about it than the tidbits tour operators serve to tourists.

    Here’s the question, how do I do that? How does one integrate into a place like Belfast where it’s infinitely easier to stay in one’s own ghetto? And if it’s a really posh ghetto, is it even worth trying?

  • 14 Comments

    1.
    October 21, 2009
    4:27 pm

    It will take time account Ulster can only see two of it’s many colors. Mean while tell them that you are black green and enjoy all their colors.

    Comment by Patrick
    2.
    October 21, 2009
    7:47 pm

    I know this is not a very original idea, but if you have any interest in sport you could try going down to the local when there is a match on and get chatting with the punters. It is usually a handy and politically neutral ice-breaker.
    I have the same dilemma here in Switzerland. I work in an English speaking company and there in no pressing practical reason to integrate with the outside world but I feel I am missing out a little. Since 30% of the people here vote for the SVP, who are a gang of far-right nutters who want end all bi-lateral relations with the EU and ammend the federal constitution to ban the construction of Islamic minarets, it is handy to discuss something like football in the pub while you scope out who you are dealing with.

    Comment by getoffmycloud
    3.
    October 21, 2009
    9:50 pm

    Getoffmycloud suggests going to a match, should one choose rugby, soccer or Gaelic football? I never thought the SVP (St Vincent de Paul Society??) was all that right-wing.

    Comment by Noel
    4.
    October 21, 2009
    10:00 pm

    Noel wrote: “Getoffmycloud suggests going to a match, should one choose rugby, soccer or Gaelic football? I never thought the SVP (St Vincent de Paul Society??) was all that right-wing.”

    Well if Bryan goes to a watch a Gaelic match up the North, I think he’ll probably be limiting himself to only one half of the demographic up there. :) I think going to watch a match is a good idea, just keep your eye on the type of pub it is, because people can be VERY unpredictable when they’ve drink on them. The mood and attitudes in the place could turn very easily.

    As to whether it’s even worth coming out of the student ghetto – you won’t know until you’ve sampled the outside. You might like it, you might hate it. Just be on your guard, is what I’d suggest. I’ve known a lot of people from the North to be very touchy, and that’s even without drink on them.

    As for the SVP… it’s different strokes for different folks. The Swiss democratic model is different from ours, and it might be argued that it’s more representational of what people actual want. So I’d hesitate to suggest that a full third of the country would vote for a party who are “nutters”. We should all be more tolerant of others opinions.

    Comment by Steve
    5.
    October 21, 2009
    11:42 pm

    I understand the Swiss democratic model Steve, and I agree, it is very representative on paper. It is the closest real-life example of the “ideal type” of consensus democracy (as formulated by political theorist Arend Lijphart).
    The SVP , however, are a bunch of nutters. About two years ago, for example, they ran a campaign poster featuring 3 white sheep kicking a black sheep off a map of Switzerland. Take a look online – the NY Times ran a story on it. They are vehemently anti-immigration and often invoke quite disturbing rhetoric to state their case. This is coupled with nationalist economics and isolationist foreign policy.
    Luckily, these policies are never actualy put into practice, because the Swiss “magic formula” means that the Swiss government is always a four party coalition at all levels of government including the executive (ie The Federal Council who are like the 7 Presidents of Switzerland).
    In this way, the Swiss system almost protects the Swiss electorate from themselves. They can make a protest vote for a party like the SVP safe in the knowledge that even if it gains a plural majority (as it now has) it will not have anything approximating undiluted control over policy. Actual policy is the result of compromises trashed out with the other parties.
    It is interesting and somewhat ironic that in other countries with similar consociational or consensus based systems, such as the Netherlands, there are also far-right parties with significant electoral support. Remember Pim Fortuyn? Or what about Geert Wilders?

    Comment by getoffmycloud
    6.
    October 22, 2009
    5:09 am

    Bryan,

    Look up a study done by Robert Putnam on integration in Northern Ireland in 2007.

    Essentially he breaks down the two prevailing views at that time as either those following the conflict theory or those following the contact theory. The conflict theory holds that proximity produces tension and conflict. Contact theory claims that proximity produces understanding and harmony.

    Belfast for years was populated on the assumption that the conflict theory was correct. Communities were split up. Now it would seem that those who espouse the contact theory are winning. Integration is slowly taking place.

    So areas of greatest integration of both catholics and protestants is where you should look . I don’t know Belfast very well but I know that Rosetta, for example, a fairly affluent suburb on the southern outskirts of Belfast is about 40/60 in terms of the mix. When you get to this level of “contact” the war is pretty much over.

    How to get to know a city that is divided. Look for minorities who find that what they have in common is greater than what divides them. Iris Robinson did the gay movement a favor last year by calling gays worse than paedophiles. The gays marched through Belfast about 15000 in number in early August. As Northern Ireland is one of the most homophobic corners left in western europe I was very happy to connect up with this march on my way out of Ireland. I found no delienation based on class, creed or age among those marching, and drinking later with the marchers got some great insights into how the protestant/catholic communities from working class/middle class backgrounds live in harmony. Because of the Iris Robinsons of this world what unites the gay movement in Northern Ireland is much greater than what divides it.

    I regret that I did not have time when passing through Belfast this summer to check out if they had a lively “humanist” or even atheist club. No where more than Northern Ireland needs this type of minority, and certainly their members would be from across the spectrum.

    Another area where the catholic/protestant divide does’nt matter in Northern Ireland is rugby. Rugby is one of the few sports (golf is another) where protestants and catholics leave their differences aside in the name of the sport. The legendary Jackie Kyle from Down played like a god in 1948 alongside Karl Mullen and others from the South to win the Grand Slam for Ireland. Did anyone care that they were protestant and catholic playing together. Jackie, still alive, and one of my heroes studied medicine in Queens.

    People integrate when they have a cause or a passion for something that no bible thumping religious divide can stop. It could be rugby. It could be sexual orientation. It could be love. Young boys and girls from India to Egypt die each year crossing such religious, ethnic and class minefields to join in love.These are the heroes of our times.

    So if you want to know more about integration in Belfast get in contact with these communities.

    I thank the world for causes and passions which bring us together and break down the self imposed barriers which bring shame to the species.

    Patrick

    Bangkok

    Comment by Patrick Hennessy
    7.
    October 22, 2009
    10:06 am

    What a nice picture of the Malone Road. Once the area was almost exclusively upper class and Protestant. Now most of them have moved out and now the area is mostly upper class and Catholic. I know it well.
    If you want to see sport go to Casement Park and watch Hurling and Gaelic Football.

    Comment by Brian P O Cinneide
    8.
    October 22, 2009
    10:08 am

    Sadly the very process of trying to integrate by its nature means to some extent to chose a side. I have worked in three all-island companies all of which are large multi-nationals. Business is task focused so one can ignore difference in the main at work. Soccer (english premiership) is neutral territory, Glaswegian soccer derbies are obviously not. Similarly, rugby which I have played and travelled to watch since I was 10 in NI is unquestionably 90%+ protestant middle and upper class. Working class protestants play soccer. Catholics mostly play Gaelic Football with a little bit of Hurling in Antrim.

    There is the old joke about a jew walking down a street in Belfast being pulled down an alley, a knife being put to his throat and then asked in a low northern growl “catholic or protestant”. When he replied Jewish, there was a pause and then he asked again “aye, but are ye jewish catholic or jewish protestant”.

    You are safer in academia!

    Comment by robespierre
    9.
    October 22, 2009
    10:42 am

    Bryan,

    Just to avoid the debate getting waysided by my slip of the tongue above. It was not as I state above a Putnam study but a study quoting Putnam,

    Putnam moved his views from his publication Bowling Alone (2000 ?) where he argued that diversity reduced social cohesion to his paper called E Pluribus Unum (2006) where he argues that as societies advance the very diversity that lowered cohesion in the first place both enriches and cements them more together in the long term.

    I think this applies aptly to Northern Ireland “integration”. Let the future tell !!

    Patrick
    Bangkok

    Comment by Patrick Hennessy
    10.
    October 22, 2009
    11:06 am

    I would have thought one of the advantages of being an outsider is that you can attend rugby, soccer and gaelic.
    Im looking forward to reading about your time in Belfast, Bryan. You probably noticed by now that Ireland isnt the easiest place to integrate; it can be v cliquey. It would be interesting to see how similar/different that is in the North. And university is probably one of the better places to avoid all that.
    Real integration will be a very informal, easygoing process that just falls into place (just never look like youre making an effort!)

    Comment by Áine
    11.
    October 22, 2009
    11:08 am

    Patrick – I don’t know if talking about colours is a good idea. I always get confused about who is represented by which one. Green, orange, red, blue,…

    getoffmycloud – It’s comforting to know that there are so many of us in this situation. I just need to figure out which bars I’d be most welcome in outside the university catchment area, and I’ll try watching an Arsenal match there.

    Patrick Hennessy – that’s an interesting observation. I’ve always thought it was particularly dangerous to represent a third interest when there are two poles fighting over something. But maybe joining groups which are passionate about something other than the primary issue is the way to go. Definitely food for thought there. Thanks.

    Steve – is there any easy way of telling what a pub might be like before walking in? Besides recommendations that is?

    Brian – Thank you. Again, I’m impressed by your extensive knowledge of Ireland. There doesn’t seem to be an area you don’t know reasonably well.

    Robespierre – You are safer in academia!

    I love that joke! And you’re right, academia is safer. That is what makes venturing beyond my ‘ghetto’ so difficult.

    Comment by Bryan
    12.
    October 22, 2009
    11:13 am

    Thanks Áine. I’m looking forward to writing about it. And thanks for the advice. I think you’re probably right. I especially like the bit about never looking like you’re making an effort. Reminds me of high school and trying to talk to girls, which is a little worrying. I was horrible at that! Once I got so nervous, a cup of tea flew out of my hand soaking my uniform. That said, I sort of recovered with a witty line about still getting over the shakes and being a recovering addict!

    Comment by Bryan
    13.
    October 22, 2009
    11:13 pm

    Bryan wrote: “Steve – is there any easy way of telling what a pub might be like before walking in? Besides recommendations that is?
    Bryan, sorry, time not my own right now…
    Recommendation is the best bet, obviously, but failing that….
    Maybe look for a good mix of ages of the punters? Too many young guys can be bad news. Young guys have too much testosterone and not enough common sense and they tend to drink too much. Some older people there too can be an indication that the “scene” in the pub isn’t too hectic? It’s hard to explain… I go by my gut most of the time, but that’s after growing up in Ireland.
    Just use your common sense, go with recommendations. Be a bit careful. I’d rather read about you on your blog than end up reading about you on one of the other pages in the Times, if you catch my drift :)

    Have a good time.

    Comment by Steve
    14.
    October 23, 2009
    11:53 pm

    Don’t write the “troubles tour” off as mere mainstream tourism check it out yourself it will give you a convenient geographically introduction to the city and its various (dangerous) districts which in turn you can convert to a mental map, safe, unsafe, dangerous, etc, there may be times that its simpler or more immediate to understand the reality/geography on the the ground then trying to intellectualise it.

    by the way check out “Hunger” on dvd (An interesting prepsective on the hunger strikes in which ten men straved themslves to death the flim is made by a black Englishman so that in itself is an unsual viewpoint.)

    take care

    Comment by David

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