Not a time to worry about Michelin stars…
According to a report from the Restaurants Association of Ireland one in three Irish restaurants are in grave danger of closing. It also confirms what many of us have believed for quite a while: that some 80% of restaurants are trading at a loss.
The RAI are not putting forward any glib solutions to the problems that restaurants face but they are calling for a reduction in the minimum legal wage from €8.65 to €7.65 per hour and, somewhat bizarrely, for the abolition of VAT on drink in restaurants. The first suggestion makes a great deal of sense. The level of our minimum legal wage is a relic of times that are now dead and buried and we will not see their like again (or, if we do, we should be very worrried) and needs urgent revision. But the chances of getting the Government to exempt restaurant drinks from VAT are nil.
According to the RAI, Ireland is the most expensive country in Europe in which to run a restaurant and I can well believe it. They describe “food input costs” as being a whopping 24% higher than the EU average. And given that we have the highest rate of duty and VAT on wine (including an extra-punitive tax on sparkling wine) it’s a wonder that there are any restaurants left at all.
Having said all that, this is probably the best time ever to eat out. Certainly in Dublin, where there is just about a critical mass in terms of population. Prices are keen, expecially if you get your timing right, there has been a spate of interesting new openings in recent months, more restaurants are taking more care about sourcing, and, while imagination is still a bit of rarity, there is now a very gratifying choice of styles and cuisines out there.
However, if the RAI is right and there is going to be a massive cull of restaurants (and it does seem that there are actually more restaurants in Dublin now than there were at the height of the boom), we can only hope that it will be the less deserving ones that vanish. Given the addiction of The Fates to irony you can be pretty sure that some of the casualties will be restaurants that are doing a very fine job. And that some toxic extablishments will still keep their heads above the flood.
Meanwhile, thanks to The New Yorker, we learn something (not a whole lot, really) about how Michelin inspectors work. The timing is ironic. I guess there was never a time when chefs in Ireland gave less of a damn about Michelin stars. It’s credit rating, not Michelin rating that matters just now.




5:04 pm
If it’s all about cashflow then any restaurants where the owner owns the buildings debt free will be at a distinct advantage. I hope the restaurants will be able to negotiate their rents down as there would either be an incentive to close down or open up again or else a new breed will be able to pick over the bones of the fallen.
Comment by LiamThey have a very strong point on the minimum wage and business rates