Just a reminder that the wild garlic – or ramsons – that flourishes all over the country is at its most gloriously pungent at this stage, just before flowering. I made one helluva risotto with it yesterday. Esentially, just make a risotto in the normal way but skip the veg. Throw in a glass of dry white wine and use good chicken stock. The wild garlic leaves cook down to nothing so you will need four great big fistfuls at least. Chop them coarsely and dump them in when the rice is just done, followed by industrial quantities of Parmesan and a very large knob of butter. You can justify the extravagance because the main ingredient is free. Take the pan off the heat, cover and leave for 3 minutes before dishing up. Bliss… I don’t know how I could reduce those simple guidelines to a Twitter message but that giant among chefs, Rowley Leigh, has done this for his seductive Parmesan custards which he likes to serve with anchovy toasts.