Rosemary Mac Cabe

Hemlines, heels and haute couture – your daily dose

Day one at London Fashion Week – A/W 2013

S/S 2013 at London Fashion Week – collections from Zoe Jordan, Bora Aksu, Fyodor Golan, Felder Felder and KTZ

Sat, Feb 16, 2013, 18:16

   

London Fashion Week kicked off yesterday, and for the second season in a row, I’m keeping a close eye on proceedings from the comfort of my home, for a variety of very unfashionable reasons. Day one saw shows from Zoe Jordan, PPQ, KTZ, Felder Felder, Fyodor Golan and more – and of course you already saw Laura Whitmore’s costume changes for the day’s proceedings.

It’s pretty early to be picking out themes, but it’s safe to say that sheer fabrics are going to be big for A/W 2013. That’s not to say that we’re all going to be rocking into the office with our tits out, but we’ll see it filtering down in sleeves, sheer panelling and lots of sheer layers. Let’s have a round-up of a selection of yesterday’s shows, shall we?

Zoe Jordan is really growing up for A/W 2013. There are a few aspects – that check motif, for example – of the new collection that reminded me slightly of Topshop’s S/S Unique show, which won’t be music to the Zoe Jordan camp’s ears, but there were other very covetable aspects: that bright raspberry pop was, along with a tangerine, the show’s only bright spot and it was all the more welcome for it, and the austere, sexy tailoring (centre) felt really fresh.

Ireland’s own Laura O’Grady (bottom right) opened the show for Bora Aksu yesterday at Somerset House, wearing a heavily knitted cream ensemble with a skull cap that managed to be simultaneously fierce and pretty. (I know, I know, too much Top Model.) Bora Aksu stayed on the right side of conceptual with a collection of gorgeous knitted pieces and tasty separates, although some (bottom left, for example) seemed a little too pedestrian.

Blame Fyodor Golan for handing us our first sheer look of yesterday, seen at the top of this post (should I have said NSFW?). The collection was big and dramatic, befitting its setting at London’s Savoy. Those modern turquoise prints looked great juxtaposed against the 1970s geometry of the quilted toffee-coloured fabric, and there were big statements made – statements that we may just see gracing some red carpets in months to come.

Back in Somerset House, the KTZ collection took inspiration, it seems, from all over – shades of Isabel Marant in the Western-themed fringing and Ikat prints; shades of Yves Saint Laurent (or, more accurately, Hedi Slimant at Saint Laurent Paris) in the hats – although combined with the hairdo, the desired look perhaps tended more towards orthodox Jew than hip, left-bank Parisian. The dirndl skirt shape (seen above right) worked really well with the laser-cut fabric, and a shearling skirt’n'jacket combo reminded us all why shearling keeps coming back into fashion.

Last, but by no means least, Felder Felder went from one extreme to another – with more sheer fabric, followed by those OTT Mongolian coats. It was sexy without being over-exposed, and it was also interesting to see how the collection managed to incorporate so many different vibes and shapes, from relaxed to tailored, Studio 54 to Charlie’s Angels. The Mongolian coats were the standout moment of the collection, so it’s a pity for the Felder sisters that they came so soon after Mulberry’s furry animals of A/W 2012.

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