Rosemary Mac Cabe

Hemlines, heels and haute couture – your daily dose

Saint Laurent looks set to start 2013 with a bang, despite it all

Hedi Slimane’s first collection for the renamed Saint Laurent didn’t go down too well with critics – in fact, they were, generally speaking, underawed and disappointed by what they saw as a cop-out collection of monochromes and unoriginality. But among …

Mon, Dec 24, 2012, 07:30

   

Hedi Slimane’s first collection for the renamed Saint Laurent didn’t go down too well with critics – in fact, they were, generally speaking, underawed and disappointed by what they saw as a cop-out collection of monochromes and unoriginality. But among fashion lovers, the consensus was quite positive: we loved the chic separates, the cool 1970s vibe of the trouser suits and embellished jackets. And this opens up a lot of questions about the relevance of old-school journalists in a market that is very much determined by what people want to buy (and, therefore, what people want to wear). We’re not all looking for Slimane’s next move; maybe we’re looking for this very homage to YSL that the critics disliked.

As it happens, the S/S 2013 ads that have just dropped (via Pepper and Chips) do a lot to strengthen Slimane’s case. There’s a feel to them that’s not unlike that of Balmain, some five years ago, under Christophe Decarnin, and despite sky-high prices, Balmain did pretty well (although it never sold out; there are too many Balmain sales on the Outnet for that). And the ad campaign isn’t the only strong indicator of Slimane’s imminent success at Saint Laurent; the label has featured on not one but two January Vogue covers so far: Vogue US, adorning the head (and body) of Gwen Stefani, and Vogue Russia, on Lara Stone.

It’s definitely a good start for Slimane and Saint Laurent. What we’ll have to wait for next is sales figures: will people go for Saint Laurent under the new enfant terrible (a title previously held by one Alexander McQueen and, lately, John Galliano) of fashion? More pics of Saint Laurent’s S/S 2013 ad campaign après le jump!

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