Rosemary Mac Cabe

Hemlines, heels and haute couture – your daily dose

Review – Nicole Farhi A/W 2012 at London Fashion Week

At Nicole Farhi yesterday morning – hot off the fashion bus from Mulberry – in the Royal Courts of Justice, I sat roughly 10 seats down from Anna Wintour on the front row and spotted Kate Lanphear, Jameela Jamil and …

Sun, Feb 19, 2012, 22:57

   

At Nicole Farhi yesterday morning – hot off the fashion bus from Mulberry – in the Royal Courts of Justice, I sat roughly 10 seats down from Anna Wintour on the front row and spotted Kate Lanphear, Jameela Jamil and Hamish Bowles in the crowd. Those are the real stars of London Fashion Week.

There were no huge surprises in terms of structure, shape or colour at Nicole Farhi‘s show, but there were some truly beautiful pieces and a lot of motifs that will definitely be riffed upon by the high street and beyond come A/W. Shapes were simple, but with futuristic accents such as metallics and cut-out accents in leather and sequins, and tights were all charcoal, which was gorgeous. Charcoal is most definitely the new black, in terms of hosiery in any case.

This season’s collared trend was exacerbated with double-collared shirts, which were a beautifully fresh version of an old, old classic, while a short, white lace dress would make a gorgeous wedding alternative – aren’t we over the more traditional wedding dresses at this stage? The hero pieces were definitely her sequined items, which reminded me of beaded curtains in vintage shops and brought to mind rain on slick, concreted streets and leaves in autumn. Stunning.

Trouser shapes were tailored but loose – a cross between a flare and a bootcut shape – and in metallic fabrics, like a futuristic version of the 1970s. Colours, too, were almost traditionally autumnal – plums, greys and blacks with mustard accents (is mustard beautiful? I used to hate it but I’m really, really coming around!) and a lot of leather with fur accents here and there. (No, fur is going nowhere.)

Hair was slicked back – accents of last year’s Topshop Unique show but far more restrained – while make-up was nude with a dark magenta lip. It’s interesting how this season’s make-up seems to really have taken a few steps back from last season – and I love the natural look so I’m really happy about it!

What do you think about Nicole Farhi’s collection? Are you impressed by its austere beauty or do you find it boring?