Rosemary Mac Cabe

Hemlines, heels and haute couture – your daily dose

Review – Christopher Raeburn A/W 2012 at LFW

Saturday at London Fashion Week was a bit of a wash (and I’m not just talking about the weather); I hadn’t got tickets to Simone Rocha, so I didn’t go along and, as it turns out, it was oversubscribed so …

Sun, Feb 19, 2012, 07:30

   

Saturday at London Fashion Week was a bit of a wash (and I’m not just talking about the weather); I hadn’t got tickets to Simone Rocha, so I didn’t go along and, as it turns out, it was oversubscribed so it’s very unlikely I would have blagged my way in – although I watched the live stream and it looked incredible. I then ran along for John Rocha, getting soaked on the way, which was also oversubscribed and I didn’t make it in! I almost cried. Well, not really as, let’s face it, people are dying in the third world!

So I rambled along to Christopher Raeburn, showing in the Portico Gallery at Somerset House (which is a maze; last year I only saw around 25% of it). His collection was a look at utilitarian parka couture, for want of a better description – entitled Freeze, every garment, according to the show literature, “serves both purpose and design”.

Colours, for the most part, were muted and subdued, and the body was not so much flattered as obscured in layers of fabric and weatherproofing. Pencil skirts in this season’s signature oversized polka dot were figure-hugging and flattering, while polka dot hoods and a pop of sunshine yellow were the only bright lights on an otherwise slightly murky horizon.

This boiler suit, despite its obvious downfalls (er, who is going to wear that?), was one of my favourite pieces. Perhaps it’s my aviation heritage (my Dad is, as they’d say, big into flying) or the fact that I love a good onesie, but I thought this was just a really interesting piece, and the texture and fabric really stood out to me.

Footwear, too, was very clever; zip-up waterproof parkas for your heels, basically, in a vinyl-alike fabric – and I loved the backpacks, which are new for this season.

Make-up comprised a smoky eye and a neutral lip, and the sullenness of the models reminded me slightly of Lisbeth Salander in The Girl With the Dragon Tattoo. (I wonder how many shows actually referenced Salander this season?) It was also quite the thrill to sit next to Sandra of one of my favourite blogs, 5 Inch and Up, looking every inch (geddit?!) as fabulous and I’d imagined she would.

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