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  • irishtimes.com - Posted: August 14, 2009 @ 11:01 am

    Are you hot enough to work at American Apparel?

    Laura Slattery

    Is it a pencil skirt or a boob tube? It’s American Apparel, so it’s probably both. The body-con, block-coloured clothing emporium opened its first outlet in Ireland earlier this month, bringing stretchy 70s-flavoured basics to the mid-market. But the big question (well, perhaps not the big question) is are its Dublin staff good looking?

    This is not a cruelly random inquiry. American Apparel chief executive Dov Charney, a man who collects lawsuits the way other CEOs collect vintage cars, has been accused of engaging in “beauty profiling” - hiring and firing on the basis of someone’s looks rather than their ability.

    A US staffer-cum-informant last month emailed the Gawker gossip blog the following insight: “One week, he (Charney) went on a huge tirade and made stores that weren’t doing well send in group photos. Why, you ask? He made store managers across the country take group photos of their employees so that he could personally judge people based on looks. He is tightening the AA ‘aesthetic,’ and anyone that he deems not good-looking enough to work there, is encouraged to be fired.”

    The company has denied that it screens for looks and said it’s style that matters. According to a spokeswoman, its T-shirts, tunic dresses and leggings are really “art supplies” that need to be shown off in suitably cool way. But appearance-based discrimination has long been common throughout fashion retailing, as well as an unspoken truth across a number of workplaces, from the shop floor to the boardroom.

    Customer-facing businesses want their customer-facing staff to have, well, nice faces. Researchers have found that beautiful people are paid more. Now this scary, eugenics-tinged practice is making its unapologetic way into retailers’ official HR handbooks with alarming alacrity (witness the outrageous “look policy” at Abercrombie & Fitch, which yesterday lost its wrongful dismissal case against a student with a prosthetic arm).

    Popping into American Apparel’s new Dublin branch opposite Trinity College to see if its staff were really that gorgeous, I was distracted at the entrance to the shop by a stand displaying an article from green culture website Beanstockd, with the unnerving headline: “It’s ok to like American Apparel.” Uh huh. So there are reasons not to like American Apparel, an innocent and totally un-bothered customer might think before heading straight for the canary yellow waist belts.

    In recent months, I’ve been massively entertained by the bizarre legal spat between Charney and film director Woody Allen, which went something like this: they used Allen’s image without consent, he called their ads “sleazy” and demanded compensation, they said you’re calling us sleazy, the judge said yes and your problem is?

    However ethical their clothing procurement policies may be, it is never good to lose the moral high ground to Woody Allen. But I’m willing to bet that 95 per cent of the people who cross American Apparel’s threshold in search of a humble hoodie have never heard of Dov Charney, much less that he has had a number of sexual harassment cases taken against him. (Every single one of his relationships and sexual encounters with staff has been consensual, okay?)

    Given what Beanstockd refers to as its “lo-fi pornographic ad campaign”, it’s not hard to conclude that sex and even accusations of sleaze are part of the sell. I think American Apparel’s ”art supplies” - the various shades of a colour detergent ad clothesline – are fabulous if you’re having a thin day or are under a certain age. There’s got to be a time and a place for gold hot pants, even if that time and place is largely confined to a Kylie Minogue music video, circa 1999. But if I buy a short skirt, I want it to just be a short skirt, free of connotations: not part of some roller-disco corporate ethos hatched by one of those tedious cult-CEO types, and especially not one with no concept of employer-employee boundaries.

    American Apparel’s clothes are tight, tight, tight. If you’re usually a “small”, don’t even think about trying on anything less than a “medium”. If you’re usually a “medium”, well you might just about scrape into a “large”. And if you’re a woman over size 12, forget about it: one look at the bandeau-style underwear will tell you everything you need to know about its target customer: young and/or flat-chested.

    So were the sales staff stunningly attractive? Of course. Forget about brushing up your CV, job-hunters: book a session with your local portrait photographer and get some smartly lit “portfolio” pics taken. We’re all models now.

  • 12 Comments »

    1.
    August 14, 2009
    11:37 am

    Many years ago, when at college, I worked part time in Quinnsworth. I have a small surgical scar on my right elbow (about 2 inches) and was told by one manager that I was not allowed to wear the uniform t shirt (only the sweater) because of this. I received an apology for this (and other bullying) upon leaving and being re-employed by them in another store.

    Comment by Ewan Duffy
    2.
    August 14, 2009
    12:44 pm

    You’re is your-Irish Times editor please ensure YOUR writers have a basic grasp of grammer.
    I could not focus on the substance of the piece after that clanger.

    Comment by A
    3.
    August 14, 2009
    1:28 pm

    No doubt the Juicy-Couture-tracksuit-wearing-back-brushed-beehive-sporting denizens of Dublin 4 will be stampeding their way to College Green as we speak. Personally, I’d be more worried about whether I am going to be able to walk down the street without attracting a clubbing than whether the shop assistant looks good. But such is the world we live in.

    Comment by Garrison
    4.
    August 14, 2009
    1:44 pm

    A, I have corrected this now. You are right, it was a terrible clanger. But we all make mistakes.

    (By the way, it’s grammar, not grammer!)

    Comment by Laura Slattery
    5.
    August 14, 2009
    3:11 pm

    Laura,

    I am tremendously disappointed that you got the ‘grammar’ dig in first. Probably the most ironic clanger in the big book of grammatical clangers.

    P.S. ‘A’ probably needs to realise that the blog-musings are not being run by the editor, it’s just a blog dude…

    Garrison, the list of things that are statistically more likely to happen to you than getting clubbed walking down the street in broad daylight is quite large (or were you making a funny about getting a clubbing because of your choice of clothing emporium?)

    Comment by dealga
    6.
    August 14, 2009
    4:29 pm

    Dealga, I am afraid I couldn’t resist it.

    Ewan, that sounds to me like it was a clear case of harassment and discrimination. I hope your experience was better in the new store.

    What’s interesting in the Abercrombie & Fitch case is that the employee with a prosthetic arm, Riam Dean, won on wrongful dismissal but actually lost the part of her case that related to disability discrimination. That was because technically speaking A&F were not discriminating: by not allowing her to wear a cardigan on the shop floor, they were treating her the same as all their other employees. But the judge ruled that they should have adjusted their “look policy” and by not doing so she was wrongfully dismissed.

    I suppose it’s too much to hope for to get official “look policies” made illegal.

    I’m also a big fan of cardigans, so I won’t be shopping in A&F if they ever come to Ireland seeing as they are so cardigan-intolerant on top of everything else.

    Comment by Laura Slattery
    7.
    August 14, 2009
    5:42 pm

    Yes.

    Comment by Dan Sullivan
    8.
    August 17, 2009
    12:53 pm

    It’s a proven fact that good lookin people sell more in retail. Bugger off PC brigade. All PC bangers have ever done is give names to things that continue to exist regardless. So American Apperel gets told they can’t hire on the basis of looks. Then they just look for other reasons not to hire someone. They will find them too. They are the employers, it’s always their decision. What the PC brigade always forget is that good looks are SUBJECTIVE. Personally I find nothing less attractive than an overly made up-starvation thin oompa loompa from D4 and yet this is apparently what is defined as “good looking” girls these days. If an actuarial company refuses to hire someone on the grounds that they are “stupid” would anyone complain?

    Comment by Eduardo
    9.
    August 18, 2009
    3:24 pm

    Are you sure he wasn’t born in a little town in Austria and served as a corporal in the first world war. Then wrote a book called ‘My struggle in the corporate world’ or roughly translated in German as Mein Kampf

    Comment by John
    10.
    August 19, 2009
    10:34 am

    Isn’t in worth focusing on American Apparel’s anti-sweatshop stance rather than worrying about whether the sales assistants look good? How many other cotton retailers ensure their goods are manufactured within the borders of their country? American Apparel is the only true “made in America” American clothing company. I’m not sure that any other large American clothing company (A&F, Gap, Banana Republic, J Crew) can claim that everything is manufactured in the USA.

    On the subject of looks based hiring policies, I find it interesting that the A&F look policy is vilified (Prosthetic arm case not withstanding), for me A&F is always about the loud music and the beautiful dancing people. In the London shop, I witnessed a till operator question a customer about whether they would like to work there. The customer in question was beautiful, should I be upset that although I was in the queue behind this customer, I wasn’t asked would I like to work in A&F? :-) If these “look based” sales pitches are not to everyone’s taste, they can vote with their feet and choose not to shop in these establishments. Though, many of the “not beautiful” people are excluded anyway by virtue of the fact that A&F only do very small sizes. A size 12 (Irish) is fat in A&F! Top shelf for jeans in that size, they do start at 00.

    Beautiful sales assistants working in retail is only an expansion of the beautiful air steward working for an airline. That is also a looks based profession, is that extensively written about?

    Comment by Laura
    11.
    March 13, 2010
    9:48 am

    I witnessed a till operator question a customer about whether they would like to work there.

    Comment by links of london
    12.
    April 16, 2010
    10:24 am

    I wasn’t asked would I like to work in A&F? :-) If these “look based” sales pitches are not to everyone’s taste, they can vote with their feet and choose not to shop in these establishments. Though, many of the “not beautiful” people are excluded

    Comment by vivienne westwood

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