The Irish wizards of Oz

Many Irish entrepreneurs set up wine companies in Australia in the 19th and early 20th centuries, and they continue to produce some very good wine, writes JOHN WILSON

McWILLIAM’S IS one of the great pioneering wine families of Australia. In a business that has seen massive change, the company has managed to continue as an independent family owned producer, with many family members actively involved in all aspects of the business.

At the volume end of the business, McWilliam’s manages to compete successfully with large brands owned by international corporations, yet retains an enviable reputation for producing hand-made quality wines from one of Australia’s unique historic wine regions.

Samuel McWilliam was born in Ireland in 1830, and emigrated to Australia in 1857. In 1877, he planted his first vines in Corowa, New South Wales. Two events put the company on the map. In 1913, it was the first to establish vineyards in Riverina, today a massive wine region that provides much of the bulk wine for the major brands. The second move was to take over the Mount Pleasant vineyards in Hunter Valley.

Mount Pleasant was set up by another legendary Irish Australian, Maurice O’Shea, in 1921. He spent a few years in France during the first World War and became fascinated by wine. In 1932, he sold a half-share of his winery to McWilliam, and the remainder in 1941, although he continued making wine there until his death in 1956. O’Shea is recognised as one of the key figures in establishing Hunter Valley as a wine region (at a time when the industry was dominated by fortified wine), and an important figure in Australian wine history.

Hunter Valley lies just north of Sydney. The first planting of vines took place in the 1820s, and the region succeeded largely because of its proximity to Sydney. Today it is very important as a tourist destination.

The valley is divided in two but both Upper and Lower Hunter are hot regions that probably couldn’t produce wine without the ever-present cloud cover. It is humid and frequently rains around harvest time. Not the ideal site for viticulture, but somehow the Hunter does produce some very individual world-class wines. Hunter Valley Semillon is an Australian classic. Light and acidic in its youth, it ages magnificently taking on super toasty, nutty, lightly honeyed, waxy flavours. I laid down a few bottles of Tyrrell’s (the other great name in the Hunter) VAT One Semillon 1999 for my daughter, and have so far managed to keep my hands off it. In addition to the Semillon, there is high-quality Hunter Shiraz and Chardonnay.

There have been just three chief winemakers at Mount Pleasant since 1921. The current incumbent is Phil Ryan (yes, another Irish connection) who joined the company in 1965 at the age of 19. He has worked on 33 vintages.

In addition to Mount Pleasant, McWilliam’s owns five other wineries and sources grapes from of 45 regions, including from holdings in classic regions such as Coonawarra, and the Yarra Valley. More recently it took over Evans Tate in Western Australia, and also has vineyards in the newer high-quality Hilltops region.

Bottles of the week

The wines below are available in Tesco and the two top wines are in selected Tesco stores.

McWilliam's Mount Pleasant Elizabeth Semillon 2005, Hunter Valley 12%, €19.99 (€10 for the next six weeks)I made this a wine of the week earlier this year but in case you missed it, this has to be one of the greatest bargains at the moment. Put aside any reservations you might have about Semillon; this is a wonderful light-bodied un-oaked crisp dry white wine with a delicious subtle rich toastiness.

Lovedale Single Vineyard Semillon 2005, Hunter Valley 11.5%, €34.99The Lovedale vineyard was planted in 1948, having been used as an airstrip in the second World War. This is the McWilliam's flagship Semillon. I was fortunate to taste this alongside the 2003 and 1998 vintages. All three were excellent, the 1998 is one of the best wines I have tasted this year. The 2005 has superb fresh crystalline minerals and quince fruits, with lemon and a touch of beeswax. It finishes dry and long. It can be drunk now but will develop for a decade or more. If €35 seems a lot, just remember that other iconic wines of Australia and France often cost 10 times that.

McWilliam's Hanwood Estate Shiraz 2009, South-Eastern Australia 13.5%, €9.99 (€7 for the next six weeks)The Hanwood Cabernet and Shiraz are both usually sound reliable Aussie reds. The Shiraz has solid dark fruits and damsons with some dark chocolate and a rounded finish. Drink with red meats.

McWilliam's Mount Pleasant Jack Cabernet Sauvignon 2009, Coonawarra 14%, €19.99 (€9.99 for the next six weeks)Coonawarra produces some of Australia's most respected Cabernet Sauvignon. The Jack is a classic of the species, full-bodied with rich blackcurrant, tinged with mint and toasty oak. Supple and rounded with a smooth long finish. Try it with roast lamb.

McWilliam's Mount Pleasant Philip Shiraz 2008 14.5%, €19.99 (€9.99 for the next six weeks)Soft and smooth with ripe cherry and dark fruits and a savoury, almost tarry twist. Drink now or keep for a year or two. Try it with game or red meats.

Maurice O'Shea Shiraz, Hunter Valley 2006 14.5%, €29.99Made from 80- to 120-year-old vines, this is the flagship red. It can be an acquired taste. They are never blockbusters, although they do not lack intensity, and can sometimes be astringent in their youth. But with a little age, they transform into wines with lovely, savoury, elegant blackberries and red fruits, soy and black pepper. The 2006 has a relatively deep colour, tight, cool and savoury but perfectly ripe red fruits, good acidity and excellent length. It can be drunk now, but will develop for another decade.