Cape of good grapes

South African wines are going through a sticky patch in Ireland, but the best are still available here, writes JOHN WILSON

SOUTH AFRICA continues to go through a difficult patch in Ireland, possibly due to a lack of marketing. I understand the specialist South African Vaughan Johnson shop in Temple Bar has closed. However, it seems that half of Ireland now imports the wines directly, following an annual winter holiday in the Cape. I have lost count of the number of dinner guests who quietly confide that they have shipped over a pallet for “drinking at home and for a few friends”. It is invariably followed up by the comment: “We don’t get the best wines over here.”

I am not sure if they save money in the operation, but I would certainly disagree with the last comment. It has been quite possible to buy almost all of the very best South African wines here – it just requires a little research.

Three of South Africa’s finest producers were in town recently to show their wares. I somehow contrived to miss meeting all three. However, I know their wines well, and have visited two of them.

Classic South African reds tend to be big and powerful, often with high tannin levels, too. These three producers have all managed to make a name for themselves by looking carefully at the soils in their vineyards, and using these to produce wines that offer a subtlety often lacking in their rivals’ efforts.

The competition for best Pinot Noir producer in South Africa would have only two names in contention, Bouchard Finlayson and Hamilton Russell, both based in the cooler Walker Bay region. In one of the most beautiful parts of the Cape (and there are plenty), Anthony Hamilton Russell has built up an excellent reputation for his two wines, both made from Burgundian grape varieties.

His Chardonnay seems to have improved greatly – it now has less oak and more fruit. It went perfectly with a plate of seared scallops. But it is the Pinot that gets all the publicity. Hamilton Russell has eschewed the overly forward, sweet, fruity style, preferring to seek a more Burgundian, slightly earthy, cooler style.

In recent years, he has developed a second estate, Southern Right, again making only two wines, a Sauvignon Blanc and a Pinotage, and once more in Walker Bay. The Pinotage is setting new standards for that variety, and the Sauvignon joins a short list of the very best that South Africa produces from that variety.

If Hamilton Russell is king of Pinot in South Africa, most would crown Abrie Bruwer and his sister Jeanette as king and queen of Sauvignon. From their estate in Robertson, Springfield, they fashion some of the purest examples of that grape. Possibly because their two Sauvignons tend to receive all the press, the excellent Chardonnays (among my favourite New World whites) and the red wines tend to be less well known. The reds are all unique, with a wonderful elegance and a streak of dry minerals running through.

Gary and Kathy Jordan founded their estate in Stellenbosch in 1993, on an estate bought by Gary’s parents in 1982. I would love to have a cent for every time I have heard winemakers claim to combine Old World restraint with New World fruit. It doesn’t often work, but Jordan appear to have succeeded in injecting an elegance into their wines, particularly the excellent Cabernet Sauvignon and Cobblers Hill Red, a Bordeaux blend.

WINES OF THE WEEK

Southern Right Sauvignon Blanc 2009, Walker Bay, 13%, €20.99A very stylish take on Sauvignon; fresh breezy lime peel with vibrant light gooseberry fruits. Classy, quite subtle, clean, crisp wine, with edgy, cool fruit. This would go very nicely with fresh goats' cheese or tuna. Stockists: Kingdom Food and Wine, Tralee; Skibbereen Food and Wine Market; O'Donovan's, Cork; The Wine Centre, Kilkenny; Redmond's, Ranelagh; Bin No 9, Clonskeagh; Thomas's, Foxrock; The Wicklow Arms, Delgany; Sweeney's, Glasnevin; McCabe's, Mount Merrion; The Gables, Foxrock.

Jordan Bradgate Chenin Sauvignon 2008, Stellenbosch, 13.5%, €14.99More Chenin than Sauvignon on the nose, with fresh but ripe melon fruits; the Sauvignon is there, but not too obvious on the palate either, which has very attractive, lively melon fruits, and a refreshing finish. The Sauvignon component becomes more obvious with a second sip, adding a nice racy touch. Stockists: O'Donovan's, Cork; Wine Centre, Kilkenny; Redmond's, Ranelagh; Bin No 9, Clonskeagh; Thomas's, Foxrock; Wicklow Arms, Delgany; Sweeney's, Glasnevin; McCabe's, Mount Merrion; The Gables, Foxrock.

Springfield Estate Whole Berry Cabernet Sauvignon 2005, 13%, €22.50The Springfield Cabernet stands out from the sea of very similar Cabs from around the world. The antithesis of most South African reds, light and velvety, although not lacking in rich cassis and blackcurrant fruits. Expensive, but worth it. There is a strong mineral streak running across the palate, which makes it an excellent food wine. Try it with roast lamb or beef. Stockists: Searson's Wine Merchants, Monkstown; Next Door, Kimmage; Red Island Wine, Skerries; Next Door at Forum, Waterford; Gibney's Malahide; Next Door at Hennessy's, Blessington; Redmond's, Ranelagh; Next Door at Racefield Centre, Raheen; Harvest, Galway; Kelly's, Clontarf.

Hamilton Russell Pinot Noir 2007, Walker Bay, 13%, €46.50Not a showy blockbuster, but a very good medium-bodied wine with very well-crafted savoury cherry and blackberry fruits. Nicely balanced with a dryish finish. I broke out my expensive Riedel Burgundy glasses, and it made a huge difference to the wine. Try it with wild duck.

Stockists: O'Donovan's, Cork; Wine Centre, Kilkenny; Redmond's, Ranelagh; Bin No 9, Clonskeagh; Thomas's, Foxrock; Wicklow Arms, Delgany; Sweeney's, Glasnevin; McCabe's, Mount Merrion; The Gables, Foxrock.

Wine shorts

The Corkscrew wine shop on Chatham Street will hold its winter wine fair in the Westbury Hotel, Dublin 2, on Sunday, November 15th, supporting the Irish Association of Suicidology. There will be more than 100 wines to taste. Tickets are €25, with all proceeds going to charity. Tel: 01-6745731, email info@thecorkscrew.ie. 

To celebrate its first birthday, The Wine Boutique in Ringsend, Dublin 4, will this weekend hold a weekend of tastings of wines from various parts of the world, including Spain, New Zealand and Chile. Call Therese or Ciara on 01-6675281, or email therese@thewineboutique.ie.

Three of Cork's finest independent wine merchants, Karwig Wines, Bubble Brothers and Curious Wines will hold a joint wine tasting, including a few artisan food producers, next Friday and Saturday. Tickets are €15, available from www.goodwineshow.com.

If you feel restaurants overcharge for their better wines then it might be an idea to book a place at the Blackboard Bistro on Clare Street, Dublin 2. Next Thursday, Friday and Saturday, it will be offering two excellent wines, Chablis Grand Cru Bougros 2005 for €39, and Châteauneuf du Pape Domaine du Pegau 2005 for €42 per bottle – both well under normal retail prices. Tel 01-6766839.

Dalkey wine merchant On the Grapevine will hold its annual wine fair on Thursday in Fitzpatrick's Hotel in Killiney, Co Dublin, with more than 100 wines to taste. Tickets are €15. There will be a 20 per cent discount on all orders taken on the night.

Two under €12 

Firefinch Sauvignon Blanc 2008, Robertson, 12.5%, €11.99Essentially a second wine from the masters of Sauvignon, Springfield, at a price that does compete with New Zealand. Light, crisp refreshing Sauvignon with racy green fruits and a nice twist of zesty lemon. Stockists: McCabe's, Mount Merrion; Hole in the Wall, Dublin 7; Donnybrook Fair; Lilac Wines, Dublin 3; Fallon Byrne, Exchequer Street; The Gourmet Bank, Dublin 14; Whelan's, Dublin 2; Kelly's, Clontarf.

Tesco South African Reserve Chenin Blanc 2008, Stellenbosch, 13%, €6.69Made by Ken Forrester, one of the great exponents of Chenin Blanc, this is a very pleasant, easy-drinking white with light, plump, slightly leesy melon fruits and plenty of crisp acidity. Good party fare. Stockist: Tesco