A trip to Tuscany

WINE:I DO NOT OFTEN feature just one producer in this column. However, Tenuta di Capezzana has interested me for many years, and I recently had the opportunity to visit. As with a number of Tuscan estates, it is now very much more than a wine producer, also making one of the finest Italian olive oils, and running a cookery school and agri-turismo bed and breakfast, writes JOHN WILSON

The estate dates from the 15th century, when it belonged to the all-powerful Medici family, although there are records, proudly displayed, of vineyards and olive groves dating back to 804. There is a lovely evocative feel to the slightly worn, tumbledown buildings, surrounded by mature gardens and wonderful views out over the countryside and Florence, which is a mere 25km away. If you are in the area, there are regular tours of the winery, as well as cookery courses lasting one to five days. See www.capezzana.it for details.

The Contini Bonacossi family purchased Capezzana in the 1920s, and it remains very much a family affair, run by a bewildering number of relatives spanning three generations. Ugo Contini Bonacossi, now in his 80s, began making wine here in 1945, and can take credit not just for Capezzana, but for creating the Denominazione di Origine Controllata e Garantita (DOCG) of Carmignano for Italy’s wine appellation system. Four of his children are in charge of various functions alongside several grandchildren.

Wines that bear the designation Carmignano are unusual in that they must have 10-20 per cent Cabernet Sauvignon, alongside a small proportion of Merlot and the more traditional Sangiovese grape. The family claim that Cabernet was originally brought here in the 15th century by Catherine di Medici when she married into the French royal family; however, I am not convinced that anyone knew of the variety’s existence back then. Capezzana brought back fresh cuttings of Cabernet from Chateau Lafite-Rothschild some years ago, and it now has mature vineyards.

Carmignano is the smallest DOCG in Tuscany, and is 100-metres lower in altitude than Chianti Classico, with hotter days and cooler night-time temperatures. This temperature fluctuation could be the reason for the characteristic coolness and purity of fruit that I find in the Capezzana wines.

Olive oil is a very important part of the business. Capezzana has 106 hectares of vineyards, and 140 hectares of olive trees. It has two varieties of olive, the more traditional frantoio as well as mormaiolo. Serena Contini Bonacossi says the olive trees are killed by frost two to three times every century, the last occasion being 1985. It has its own olive press, and bottles the oil unfiltered. This olive oil IS used by the River Café in London and BY Jamie Oliver.

I first came across the wines of Capezzana in the 1980s, and have been enjoying them ever since. The Barco Reale is a particular favourite. This wine and the Carmignano have a wonderful light touch and elegance. The Carmignano and Ghiaia della Furba are drinkable in their youth, but can certainly age very well. We were treated to a tasting of vintages going back to 1985, most of which were in fine fettle. I reckon about eight to 10 years is perfect. In the past, the wines had their ups and downs, depending on the vintage. However, in recent years, not only have the wines improved in quality, but there also appears to be a far greater consistency.

WINES OF THE WEEK

Barco Reale di Carmignano, Capezzana 2007, 13.5%, €17.99

This is a delightfully fresh, snappy red wine with wonderful pure dark-cherry fruits, and a good dry finish. I reckon this would be a perfect match for slightly fatty foods, such as belly of pork. Stockists: Jus de Vine, Portmarnock; Fallon Byrne, Dublin 2; O’Donovan’s, Cork; 64 Wines, Glasthule; Avoca Handweavers; McHugh’s, Artane and Kilbarrack; Listons, Dublin 2; World Wide Wines, Waterford; Bin No 9, Goatstown; The Vineyard, Galway; Macs Off-Licence, Limerick; Red Nose Wine, Clonmel; Silver Granite, Palmerstown; On The Grapevine, Dalkey; Lord Mayors Off-Licence, Swords; Cellar Master, Stillorgan Industrial Park, Dublin.

Carmignano Villa di Capezzana 2005, 14%, €27.99 With a deep colour and a forward nose of dark cherries and plum pie, this is a lovely elegant spare wine with piquant dark fruits, and excellent easy length. The oak is a tiny bit obvious at the moment, but this will fade with time. Balanced and concentrated, this is a great wine for drinking now or keeping a few years. Try it now with pork dishes. Stockists: Fallon Byrne, Dublin 2; O’Donovans, Cork; Avoca Handweavers; Bin No 9, Goatstown; The Vineyard, Galway; Cellar Master, Stillorgan Industrial Park.

Ghiaie della Furba Capezzana 2003, 13.5%, €38.99

I have very happy memories of this wine from a decade or more ago, when I could buy mature bottles for around £15. Both price and quality have moved upwards since then. From the difficult 2003 vintage, this is made from 50 per cent Cabernet Sauvignon, 30 per cent Merlot and 20 per cent Syrah. A forward big plummy nose, with masses of big, rich dark fruits is matched by plenty of swarthy, dry tannins. Four-square and powerful, this needs decanting or a few more years in the bottle. Stockists: Fallon Byrne, Dublin 2; 64 Wines, Glasthule; Bin No 9, Goatstown; The Vineyard, Galway; Cellar Master, Stillorgan Industrial Park.

Le Cedro Chianti Rufina, Fattoria Lavacchio 2006, 13.5%, €16.95

This wine is not from Capezzana. Chianti from the Rufina sub-region tends to be a little lighter and fresher than that of Chianti Classico, which is not always a bad thing. Ripe, toothsome, dark-cherry fruits with a nice chunky character, and very decent length. Try with medium-bodied meat dishes. Stockists: Enowine, IFSC and Monkstown.

TWO UNDER €12

Etang des Colombes Grenache Vin de pays d’Oc 2007, 13%, €8.95. A light, juicy, easy-drinking Grenache with a peppery edge that would brighten up any dinner on a wet Wednesday evening.

Stockists: Terroirs, Donnybrook, Dublin 4.

Bressades Cuvée Tradition 2008, 13%, €11.99.

This one of my favourite producers in the Languedoc for both red and white wine. The red is ripe, warming and supple with a very seductive spicy touch. Serve with most white meats and lighter red meats too. This is available at three bottles for €30 until November 15th, and for €9.58 if you buy a full case.

Stockists:Oddbins, various outlets in Dublin.