IT HAS NOTHING to do with playing Scrooge; old Ebenezer had far more problems with humankind than merely hating Christmas. In fact, it is actually extremely difficult to detest this season of goodwill to all men. The major irritant for most has become the relentless emphasis on shopping; spend, spend, spend as if the more receipts you accumulate, the greater the enjoyment.
When I was young, I longed to be an elf working in Santa’s workshop, painting stripes on candy cane and making wooden trains and hobby horses for other children. Not because I was noble and self-sacrificing, but because I wanted Christmas to continue all year round. Anticipation is a wondrous thing.
In recent years, Christmas had some climatic assistance in creating instant festive atmosphere; heavy snow arrived on cue and transformed the immediate environs; trees and hedges became mysterious while unsightly views became appealing shapes. Admittedly, there was the slight nuisance of impassable roads and abandoned vehicles, but it was funny how all the chaos activated long-dormant humanity. We were suddenly happier and trudged to each others houses with our funny stories of how we were dealing with frozen pipes, no water, faulty boilers and how the car slid into the ditch. Impromptu conversations succeeded in putting a halt to the dreaded texting. People began to speak again. The conversation as a lost art was revived. Snow is invaluable. Suddenly there it is, instant European Christmas with its seductive white stillness, and yet again you have to feel sorry for Australians. When it comes to celebrating yuletide, a surf board can never quite compete with skis or the makeshift sledge skidding down a frozen incline.
And the snow draws people outdoors. Even the laziest, TV-loving father will rediscover his competitive urges when realising that he wants to make the biggest statement snowman, the one that will be remembered. Whether or not the snow materialises, once the carol singers give voice to that most famous of announcements, "God Rest You Merry Gentlemen", and the great choruses from Handel's Messiahare raising church and concert-hall ceilings, Christmas has arrived. No lurid Sale Now On poster can compete with the definitive Christmas ritual, the big walk, and let the family dog lead the way.
This is easy, particularly in Ireland, where even the blandest suburb is not that far from a park or woods, a wooded hill path, or the sea. You live in the city? Head for the canal and the swans will be there. What is the best present? Time. For a few days at Christmas, most people will have time to think, to talk with their family and friends, to listen that bit better to each other. To look and see what most of us rarely notice.
The village of Enniskerry in Co Wicklow sustains a hint of Christmas all year round, and Djouce mountain beckons, providing that you have not already decided to tackle the Sugarloaf with its sea views or Lough Dan and the lakes.
Whether you are in Sligo, or in Westport close to Croagh Patrick and its Clew Bay panorama, or wandering across Bull Island in Co Dublin, you should catch more than a glimpse of one of the most constant of winter visitors, the pale-bellied Brent geese, all the way from Arctic Canada and Greenland. Large flocks of them peruse Ireland’s coastal areas, patiently grazing, and are here to stay until late April. If you are sufficiently sharp-eyed you may see beyond its camouflage and study the curlew, Ireland’s largest wader bird. The European redshanks have by now arrived in from Iceland and northeastern Europe to join the resident flock. The Boyne estuary provides an ideal place for the great Christmas walk, complete with a diverse cast of bird life willing to be gazed at.
Just beyond Drogheda is the peaceful church yard of Monasterboice with its round tower and two high crosses including the majestic Cross of Muiredach, upon the east face of which is carved the Adoration of the Magi. Heading further north is Carlingford and the Cooley Mountains.
Every aspiring photographer will know the variety that the Mourne region offers. A walk can easily become an expedition. If you have come this far, then you are almost there; welcome to Ireland’s best-kept secret, magnificent Strangford Lough in Co Down. A natural harbour with an intricate history, it is also an area of spectacular beauty, an archaeological wonderland. Historic Mount Stewart House – and its gardens, with a white deer forever in flight – overlooks the lough and although many of Ireland’s great houses and gardens are closed at this time of year, there is a wealth of accessible field monuments, archaeological and historic sites, such as Carrickfergus Castle, with its views over the sea.
Further inland is the watery archipelago of Co Fermanagh’s leafy lakelands. Head to Co Donegal and a brisk uphill walk just outside the town of Raphoe opens out on to the plateau on which stands the mighty Beltany stone circle composed of about 60 stones with one standing just outside the circle. To give some idea of its size, it is useful to consider that the Drombeg stone circle in Co Cork consists of 17 standing stones.
The winter solstice brings the admiring eyes of the world to the great, late Stone Age tomb at Newgrange, Co Meath, in which the sharp morning sun is hoped to pierce the back wall of the chamber, all brilliantly constructed more than 5,000 years ago by farmers with a sophisticated understanding of science as well as a deep respect for their dead and the gods who made their world and ordained the seasons.
You could find yourself in Co Kilkenny, where Jerpoint Abbey is a likely destination. What better place to visit than the ancient monastic site of Clonmacnoise in Co Offaly? It is a commanding site at the centre of Ireland on the banks of the Shannon and claims another of the finest of the surviving high crosses, the Cross of the Scriptures, dating from the ninth century. If Co Kildare is closer to home, the elegant high cross at Moone, tall and beautiful, awaits. Among the many scenes depicted on it is the flight into Egypt. Still in Co Kildare is Dún Ailinne, a hill fort on a small summit, believed to have once been the seat of the kings of Leinster.
There is no denying that Christmas walkers vary in range from the sedate – content with a leisurely stroll through a city park, or perhaps even the walk to and from a church service – to a more adventurous breed, more intent on climbing than strolling. The climbers, conditions permitting, might like to experience Mount Brandon just outside Dingle in Co Kerry. Or the National Park outside Killarney, offering a true feel of a wilderness where tourism quickly yields to nature with a glorious drama. The choice is rich; long views out over the lakes or privileged sightings of deer.
Where better to spend Christmas than in Connemara, where the Twelve Bens and the Maumturks offer ideal hill walking, and beaches possessing the haunting grandeur of Omey span the coastline? The surreal marvel that is the Burren in Co Clare lies waiting to be explored, and an interesting way to do this is by visiting the ancient church sites dotted around the area. The spring and summer wildflowers draw visitors, yet the Burren in winter has an austere beauty.
Why not look out over the Cliffs of Moher on Christmas Day? But you don’t have to walk or climb; you can cycle through the Slieve Blooms in Co Laois or along the Vee in Co Waterford, or on Hook Head in Co Wexford. Better still, ride a horse – trekking centres across the country offer a variety of trails catering for all levels of riders.
What can you see on a winter’s day, what sight will elevate a walk into an experience or a profound memory? There are many: the sudden appearance of a stag through a hedge; a fox browsing; look up and there could be a short-eared owl – one of the few that hunt by day – surveying a stubble field, or a sand dune, on the look out for a hapless mouse or rat. At times, short-eared owls, with their distinctive faces encircled by a hood of feathers, also hunt in small groups.
Bird life is live theatre, but should you take your eyes away from the sky and look to the ground, you might spot the fleeting movement of the pygmy shrew, Ireland’s smallest mammal. This is a frenetic, bizarrely territorial little character with a daily mission – to eat its own body weight. In little over a year, a pygmy shrew is born, usually in June or July, reproduces and dies. Its heart rate can range from 600 to 1,000 beats a minute. Many don’t survive their first – and only – winter and are eaten by foxes or marauding owls.
The smell of the Christmas tree, the annual, almost ceremonial reappearance of the decorations that acquire increasing importance to any family with each passing year, the sounds of the traditional carols and, most of all, the great and glorious outdoors with its wildlife going about the business of survival, are far more vital to the Christmas spirit than that demented panic in the shopping mall.
In the absence of snow, there may be frost. But never fear, in Ireland the weather is rarely boring. We can always rely on heavy rain and high winds, and if on Christmas morning a vicious gale is tearing across the country, let us stand tall and remind ourselves that Ireland is an island nation and we can deal with raging storms and that great leveller, the wind-chill factor.
Across most of Europe, Christmas Eve is the most special day, yet as Luiza from Poland told me, in her country people believe that on Christmas night all the animals speak with human voices. What must they think of the way we, mankind in a hurry, see Christmas?
Christmas walking events
If your pleasure is a walk that conveniently comes oven ready and fully basted, you should join one of the well-prepared outings offered below. After a breezy, pulse-raising experience, you will doubtless return feeling enriched and anticipating your next ramble. Once established, a walking habit is a gift that keeps on giving.
Step back in time (December 26th)
The Tóchar Phádraig is the original penitential path to Croagh Patrick. On St Stephens’s Day, you can follow 17km of this ancient trail on a four-hour trek to Ballintubber Abbey by traversing fields and ancient pathways loaded with antiquities and historic echoes. Meet 11am, Ballintubber Abbey, Co Mayo from where walkers are transported to the start. Tel: 094-9030934
LARCC with the devil (December 27th)
Reputedly a demon once reduced the height of Tipperary’s Devil’s Bit mountain by biting the summit, which conveniently allows walkers reach this now unpretentious mountaintop with minimal effort. You can help the LARCC organisation provide support for cancer patients by following this charming ramble with good company, great views and complimentary hot toddies afterwards.
Departs from Templemore Arms Hotel. First walk 10.30am, second walk, noon. Tel: 086-8734665
Ramble o’er lakes and fells (December 27th)
Walk off the Christmas excess in Killarney with a ramble through some of Ireland’s oldest oakwoods on a free guided walk led by knowledgeable, local guides.
Departs the shores of Lough Leane at 10am (lasts three hours). killarney.ie/walkkillarney
Take the turkey challenge (December 28th)
In many ways Howth should be Ireland’s largest east-coast island but has somehow managed to cling to the mainland. This gives the advantage of easy access combined with great coastal views, which you can enjoy on this year’s Fat Turkey Charity Walk, while circumnavigating the high road around Howth Hill and raising money for injured rugby players.
Begins at Suttonians RFC, thefatturkeywalk.com.
Burren off Christmas excess (December 30th)
The Burren is undoubtedly Ireland’s most captivating landscape and a nirvana for outdoor enthusiasts. You can rid the winter blues by traversing this stunning landscape on a 10km walk-jog-run event starting from the sublime coastal location of Fanore, Co Clare. Entry costs €20 and includes refreshments before and after the event and a locally-themed commemorative medal for each participant.
Tel: 086-8519977, e-mail patrickghoward@hotmail.com
Into the west (January 1st)
What better place to usher in the New Year than walking Ireland’s stunning west coast while accompanied by one of our most experienced and knowledgeable guides. Mountain leader Gerry Greensmith is celebrating the New Year by heading a walk to the spectacular coastal summit of Ben Gorm. Starting at Aasleagh Falls, this hike offers stroll-stopping views over Killary Fjord to the rugged, island-sprinkled Atlantic coast. The walk takes four to five hours and costs €35 including transport from Westport. Starts 10.30am.
Tel: 098-26090, walkingguideireland.com
The high life for novices (January 1st)
The Galtees are Ireland’s highest inland mountains and the jewel of these fine uplands is undoubtedly the ring of great lake-bound corries eating into the north face of the highest peaks. The good news is that you can visit one of these memorable coums on an introductory walk aimed at hillwalking novices interested in an initial exploration of the Irish uplands, on a walk led by Ray Creaney.
Departs Cashel firestation at 11am, Tel: 086-3202633
Become a follower of Art (January 13th)
You need to limit seasonal indulgence if you're aiming for this one but the personal satisfaction makes it worthwhile. The Art O'Neill Challenge is a demanding 55km trek starting at midnight from Dublin Castle and heading deep into the Wicklow Mountains to retrace the 1592 escape of Red Hugh O'Donnell and Art O'Neill. Undoubtedly it's tough going, but don't be discouraged if you are reasonably fit, for this milestone event has been completed by people of all ages. It's now booked out but there is a waiting list. artoneillchallenge.ie - JOHN G O'DWYER