The Portuguese capital is not perfect, best described perhaps as shabby-chic, yet all the more attractive for that, writes Andrew Birbeck
IN THE OPENING lines of Casablanca, the narrator speaks of "the fortunate ones" who make it to Lisbon. The words still ring true. In occupied Europe, Lisbon was indeed the place to escape to and, for many, the gateway to America. Needless to say a long weekend break without the kids doesn't compare to that particular scenario, yet an escape it is nonetheless. Lisbon is an often overlooked destination, overshadowed perhaps by the likes of Paris, Prague and Barcelona. Yet the Portuguese capital gives even Paris a run for its money as a city of light.
Lisbon, or as fondly referred to by the locals “Lisa”, shimmers in the dazzling reflected light of the mighty River Tagus. The azulejos – the tiles that cover so many buildings – could almost have been designed with this effect in mind. Situated on the brink of the Atlantic it is a city from which to discover and conquer – which is, of course, exactly what the Portuguese did. From Henry the Navigator, to Vasco da Gama, to the first global circumnavigator Ferdinand Magellan, it seems Portuguese sights were firmly set on the horizon.
Indeed, many a modern traveller simply uses Lisbon as a gateway to the beaches and resorts along the coast, such as Estoril, Cascais and Setubal. Yet after being dazzled by your first glimpse of the Tagus and struck dumb by the engineering feat that is the Ponte 25 de Abril, Lisbon’s own Golden Gate Bridge, you should drag your gaze back to dry land. Absorb a square to rival the Piazza San Marco in Venice – the Marquês de Pombal’s extravagant Praça do Comércio.
Although arguably just as architecturally magnificent as San Marco, the Praça is no tourist trap, but rather a hub from which to catch a ferry to the opposite shore, jump on one of the trams, or take a bus. The monumental crowning glories are the Arco da Vitoria which leads onto the Rua Augusta, and the overblown statue of King José I gazing imperiously towards the water as his horse rides rough-shod over a batch of serpents. Nothing here is done by halves.
PRAÇA DO COMÉRCIO is a great first stop on day one of your visit, a place from which to get your bearings, but not to be done until you have sampled uma bicaor two and the breakfast, or indeed anytime, snack of choice for Lisboetas – the delicious pastelnata.
Pastelerias, or pastry shops, are everywhere. The half million or so city dwellers dart in and out of them from early morning until late at night fuelling and refuelling on bicas – fiendishly strong espressos – and pastries of all shapes and sizes both sweet and savoury. The queen of these is the pastelnata. To call it a custard tart is to do it a disservice. They are in effect extra thick creme brulées nestling in light crunchy pastry, without doubt a dieter’s nightmare, but what the heck – you’re on holidays. A couple of these washed down with a few bicas and you’ve got enough caffeine and sugar to take on anything the day or night may throw at you. You’re going to need it, because there’s just so much to see and do, and you’ll be lucky to hit your bed before dawn.
No matter how many trams or elevadors you take there’s going to be lots of walking as well. A word to the wise from my wife on that score – high heels in Lisbon are for the brave-hearted. The beautiful polished cobbled streets, though glorious to look at, are a visiting fashionista’s nightmare. This rule, however, does not apply to the native twenty-something female population, who quite literally take everything in their stylish stride.
Before hoofing it around too much, take the time and treat yourself to the best tram ride on the planet – the glorious hair-raising roller coaster that is Tram 28. If you’ve bought your Lisboa Card just hop on, if not it costs a mere €1.45. My advice is to take one that’s not too full. If the first you see is jammed just get to the front of the queue and wait for the next. Believe me, you’ll want a window seat to appreciate the full-on experience. The route takes roughly 45 minutes from Campo de Ourique to Martim Moniz during which time you’ll be jolted, rattled, and regularly terrified. Best of all though you’ll rediscover the big kid who lives in us all.
Locals and tourists alike grin like buffoons as they are hurtled through impossibly narrow streets and hairpin bends. No sooner are you on the level than a crazy ascent begins inevitably followed by a downhill white-knuckle ride.
IF IT ALL GETS too much, just jump off and explore before plucking up the courage to re-embark. Tram 28 skirts around many of the Lisbon must-sees such as the Castelo de São Jorge and Sé Cathedral. To my mind, however, it is the thrilling madness of careering through the medieval streets of Alfama that wins the prize. Despite your best instincts of self-preservation you feel forced to lean out an open window as you’re jolted and flung between teetering pastel-tinged buildings. It may not sound like fun, but believe me it is.
After all that you’re probably ready for a beer or something a lot stronger such as the Lisboeta pick-me-up – a cherry brandy. An excellent watering hole, though it must be said something of a tourist magnet due to the outdoor statue of Lisbon’s premier poet, writer and philosopher Fernando Pessoa, is the Café A Brasileira in fashionable Chiado. The ubiquitous bica was first served here; Pessoa now sits enshrined in bronze waiting in vain for one that never comes.
It’s a feeling you’ll be able to relate to if the place is full, which it invariably seems to be. If you’re lucky enough to grab an outside table beside our literary friend, simply take a deep breath while you’re waiting, enjoy the magnificent art deco facade and people watch to your heart’s content. When we were there, a four-piece African band was playing and, every now and then, customers spontaneously got up from their tables to dance. Who cares if you linger a while under those circumstances?
Lisbon is not perfect, best described perhaps as shabby-chic, yet all the more loveable for that. The Lisboetas have a zest for life, winningly combined with a laid-back friendly attitude that’s infectious and from which we all could learn. You may leave with a heavy heart having not seen half of what you intended. But that’s okay, because you’ll be back.
Where to stay, where to eat and where to go
5 places to stay
Hotel Britania. Rua Rodrigues Sampaio, 00-351-213-155016, heritage.pt. Serene art deco hotel centrally located on a quiet street just off the Avenida da Liberdade. Dating from the 1940s, stylishly updated and modernised, yet retaining its original charm. There are 30 spacious and beautifully decorated rooms and the bar is a modernist treat. Doubles from about €200 per night.
Brown's Apartments. Rua da Vitória, 00-351-218-874128, brownsapartments.com. Modern self-catering studios in a historic building in the heart of the Baixa area, close to the Rua Augusta and a two-minute walk from Baixa-Chiado metro station. The location is excellent, with loads of coffee shops and restaurants nearby and bang in the middle of Lisbon's shopping district. Rates from about €100 per studio per night.
Bairro Alto Hotel. Praça Luís de Camões, 00-351-213-408288, bairroaltohotel.com. The building dates from the late 1700s, but the hotel is brand new, ultra modern and chic. The roof terrace is a lesson in decadence, boasting exquisite views over the city down to the Tagus and Ponte 25 de Abril. The location couldn't be better, situated as it is at the meeting of the upper district, Bairro Alto, and trendy Chiado. Boasting excellent food, and a gym, this is a place to switch off from the world. Prices range from about €250 to €650 per night for two.
York House. 32 Rua das Janelas Verdes, 00-351-213-962435, yorkhouselisboa.com. In the London Times's "Hot 100 best hotels in Europe 2010" this is an affordable gem in a former convent dating back to the 1600s. Located close to the Tagus near the Museu de Arte Antiga in the area of Lapa, York House boasts a four-star rating and has the feel of an authentic hideaway in the city. All 32 rooms were recently refurbished yet retain their original character. Room rates from about €140 to €250.
VIP Executive Suites Eden. 24 Praça dos Restauradores, 00-351-213-216600, edenaparthotelvip.com. Located a stone's throw from the azulejo-adorned metro station, this is about as central as you can get. Art deco heaven is the best way to describe the building, and there's even a swimming pool on the roof terrace. Décor is clean and functional – you should definitely consider this one if travelling with the kids. On top of all that you're right beside the Gloria funicular which takes you up to the beautiful Mirador São Pedro de Alcântara. Studios start about €70 per night, apartments from about €110.
5 places to eat
Cervejeria Trindade. Rua Nova Trindade, Chiado, 00-351-213-423506, cervejeriatrindade.pt. Fresh fish and shellfish of all shapes and sizes, fabulous tender steaks, an amazing range of beer including Guinness on draft, a good selection of wines, free entrées – all in an ancient monastery turned brewery turned restaurant. The prices are reasonable as borne out by the restaurant's consistent popularity. Get there early in the evening to avoid the queues.
Sol Dourado. 19-25 Rua Jardim do Regedor, 00-351-213-472570, restaurantesoldourado.com. Handy first night eating place if staying in Baixa/Chiado, close to Rossio. Great friendly service and very reasonable. Entrée of a huge plate of shrimps was free, the sea bass was very fresh and great value. Not the most picturesque location but very central, just off the main tourist drag. House wine at €4 per half litre.
Bonjardim. 10 Travessa de Santo Antão, 00-351-213-427424. If you're on a budget or just want to grab an inexpensive lunch or dinner this is the place. No frills yet hearty Portuguese fare – the roast chicken comes highly recommended. The décor is simple and homely, and there are tables outside if the weather is good.
Tavares Rico. 37 Rua da Misericórdia, 00-351-213-421112, restauranteavares.pt. Spectacularly stylish chandelier and mirror-filled Michelin-starred restaurant boasting the title of being the oldest in Portugal. This place will put a dent in your wallet, but is worth the splurge. You can opt for either a la carte, a three-course lunch menu for €35 per person or a seven-course lunch or dinner menu at €90.
Royale Café. 29 Largo Rafael Bordalo Pinheiro, 00-351-213-469125, royalecafe.com. A very cool modern café/restaurant in chichi Chiado. Organic ingredients are used to create Mediterranean dishes and their own take on fish, steaks, hamburgers and gourmet sandwiches. The courtyard is especially pleasant.
5 places to go
1.Castelo de São Jorge (St George's Castle). Alfama. Originally a Moorish stronghold, from here you get the best view in Lisbon. Hop off the tram at Rua de Santa Justa and walk up the steep alley and steps. Once there take a wander around the battlements and drink in the vista. When you've finished with the castle and gardens grab the chance to get lost in the winding streets of Alfama below.
2.Monasterio dos Jerónimos, Belém. Impressive enough in sheer scale from the outside, once you enter the monastery it is easy to see why this is a Unesco World Heritage Site. The cloisters are breathtaking, particularly when viewed from the upper level. Vasco da Gama's tomb is here, as is that of the 20th-century writer Fernando Pessoa.
3.Torre de Belém. Dating from 1515 and built to defend the city, it has become synonymous with Portugal's seagoing past. Take the time not only to scale its heights but also venture into the dingy dungeons below for a taste of medieval incarceration.
4.Museu Nacional de Arte Antiga (National Museum of Ancient Art). 9 Rua das Janelas Verdes, Lapa. Portugal's biggest museum set in a palace dating from the 17th century and housing priceless masterpieces by artists such as Hieronymus Bosch.
5.Elevador de Santa Justa. Rua de Santa Justa. When you first see the elevador, or lift, you may think something is vaguely familiar about it. It is unique but was designed by Gustav Eiffel's pupil Raul Mesniér. More fantastic panoramas wait at the top as well as a cafe. There is no better place from which to see the terracotta roofs of Rossio. Early morning is probably best to avoid the crowds.
Hot spot
Join the biggest bar crawl in Europe every Friday and Saturday night in the Bairro Alto. Pick a bar, start there and see where you end up. The Miradour São Pedro de Alcântara is a good final resting place – the bar/cafe serves fine mojitos amongst other drinks while young and old carouse until early morn. Just don’t do this the night before you leave.
Shop spot
Baixa and Chiado for Zara, Zara, and more Zara at great prices. If you tire of the fashion chain, which seems to have an outlet on every corner, there are plenty of specialist shops in this area to keep you going. Many have beautiful original shopfronts. If you have energy left for the walk, the Andy Warhol Clothing Shop complete with Campbell’s Soup Tin counter on the Rua da Escola in Bairro Alto is coolness personified. Warhol would surely have approved.
Travel tips
Learn a few basic words of Portuguese. If nothing else it stops you falling into the trap of uttering the occasional bit of Spanish, which tends to go down like a lead balloon. Otherwise stick to English.
Grab a Lisboa Card at the airport or when in town. They range in price for one, two or three days and give free public transport, free access to most museums and discounts into many others. Excellent value – €33.50 for three days.
Go there:Aer Lingus (aerlingus.com) flies to Lisbon from from Dublin and Cork