Ace up Kerry's sliabh

GO WALK:The soaring rocky architecture of Killarney's Gap of Dunloe is unrivalled, writes JOHN G DWYER

IN 1861 THE PEOPLE of the southwest first came to realise they had been dealt an unmatched geographic hand when Queen Victoria marvelled at the local lakes and fells. Since then, canny Killarney folk have played this trump card to full advantage and nowhere else in Ireland has such proficiency at getting heads on beds.

The nearby presence of Ireland’s highest mountains helps, but denizens of Killarney are well aware their true ace is the dramatic landscape surrounding the world famous lakes. An excursion to MacGillycuddy’s Reeks never fails to impress, but last summer I decided to pursue instead what many regard as Killarney’s finest outing. This begins from Kate Kearney’s Cottage, which neatly bookends the northern extremities of the dramatic Gap of Dunloe.

Kate’s was busy with visitors negotiating Gap excursions in an unequal contest with the local pony men, who were employing Blarney borrowed from countless previous generations to up the price. But soon I was away from the bustle and admiring the soaring rocky architecture for which the Gap is famous.

At Echo Lake, the number of walkers and jaunting cars reduced to a trickle and I dared to shout Tennyson’s line, “Set the wild echoes flying,” and was rewarded when they did; every word boomeranging back as if prerecorded. Next it was past Turnpike Rock to the splendid viewing point at the head of the Gap. Below lay the isolated and appropriately titled Black Valley, the last place in Ireland to have been connected to the electricity grid.

Now the route doglegged right and then left before coalescing with the Kerry Way. At the next junction I went left to reach the sublimely situated former hunting lodge of Lord Brandon.

I had walked here before but had continued (right) on a superb section of the Kerry Way to Galwey’s Bridge, completing a compelling circuit by following the Old Kenmare Road to Torc Waterfall and on to Killarney.

Today, however, I had prebooked a €15 trip across Killarney’s lakes with a local boatman, Dermot O’Donoghue. Just after 2pm, we set out on Killarney’s Upper Lake, accompanied by a wonderfully indifferent group of Swiss visitors.

Now picture perfect islands slipped behind as we headed towards Muckross Lake by way of the Meeting of the Waters. By the time we reached Old Weir Bridge, the Swiss had come to life and were laughing excitedly as we stepped out on the riverbank to allow Dermot manoeuvre the boats over the rapids.

From here it was plain sailing under splendid Bricín Bridge to the Lower Lake with our boatman pointing to places with names to die – Colleen Bawn Rock, O’Donoghue’s Spy Glass, Innisfallen Island. By the time we disembarked at Ross Castle the Swiss were as animated as a Disney cartoon. Leaving them awaiting their coach in a vivacious gaggle, I followed a woodland track through Reen Wood until I reached a T-junction. Here I went left and continued straight head through a couple of intersections until I emerged at Killarney Cathedral.

Gap of Dunloe walk

AccommodationInformation about accommodation and sailing from Lord Brandon's Cottage is available from Killarney Tourist office (064–6631633).

Starting pointBoats depart from Lord Brandon's each day at 2pm from March to November. The easiest plan is probably a taxi to the Gap of Dunloe, although some operators offer combined bus/boat packages.

SuitabilityThe route presents almost nothing in the way of navigational difficulties. Be warned, though, it can get quite cold in the boats so wrap up before departure.

TimeAllow about two and a half hours to reach Lord Brandon's. The boat journey is two hours, followed by a 45-minute walk to Killarney. If you return along the Old Kenmare Road you should set aside six hours to complete.

MapOSI; Discovery Series, sheet 78.