Upstairs downstairs

FREQUENTED BY LOW-PROFILE types who don’t enjoy the limelight of Guilbaud, or the creative divilment of Thornton, but still demand a certain standard, Dax exists as an inconspicuous culinary mistress secreted away in a basement in one of Dublin’s most impressive Georgian streets. Paradoxically, its reputation for being low-key is renowned. Legend has it that the crown prince of late night, Ryan Tubridy, and Late Late Ard-Rí, Gay Byrne, and the other fellow, celebrated at Dax after Tubbers had been conferred with the holiest office in Irish telly. Perhaps they chose Dax for its discreet staff and its absence of nosy journalists, or maybe they relished the thoughts of sifting through one of the city’s most refined collections of Grands Crus and Bordeaux. I’d like to think it was the latter.

Dax is run by Olivier Meisonnave, a young Gaul who made his way to Ireland via a Michelin two-star, Restaurant Alain Chapel (located just outside Lyon), followed by a short stage at the Vista Palace hotel in Monaco. He also spent the best part of a decade as Kevin Thornton’s directeur de salle, a role in which he excelled. But floor manager was never going to be enough for this ambitious Frenchman, and Meisonnave set up Dax on Pembroke Street in 2004.

The glass-cased menu outside indicated that there would be an a la carte and a table d’hôte option, and we mentally shortlisted what we might like to try from each. Inside, however, we were informed that only the

a la carte was available, as the table d’hôte only applied Tuesday to Thursday, and this was a Friday. I’m sure this was simple carelessness but irritating nonetheless, not to mention potentially embarrassing. However, our waitress met the situation with good grace and profuse apology: the best possible way she could have.

Inside, Dax has an unusual layout. An entrance foyer where one would expect a maitre d’ to meet and greet is actually a seating area where one can dine on tapas and sip from any of the excellent wines available by the glass. We asked for an interior table and were led through to the main room, and then on to a rustic corridor at the back of the restaurant. We found this a little too discreet, and when a rambunctious party arrived in the main dining area, we kind of felt a little envious, squirrelled away in our annex.

A perfectly chilled glass each of the Trimbach Pinot Blanc, 2005 (€7.50) from Alsace set our palates up nicely, with its fresh, fruity acidity and velvet smooth finish. To start, a foie gras trio with warm brioche, apple and grape (€17) had my companion quite happy. There was a slab of whole foie gras and a delicate pâté de foie gras, though the solitary soldier of brioche was not enough. For my starter I chose braised suckling pig, black pudding, crackling and mushroom purée (€15). This was a little heavy on salt, but overall an enjoyable dish – and the black pudding was excellent.

Neither of the dishes were explained to us as they were served, which I thought unusual. At this level, I still expect a waiter to explain how the dishes have been prepared and what ingredients have been used.

As mentioned, the wine list is the real jewel in the Dax crown, comprised of impeccably curated Grands Crus and Grands Bordeaux, as well as a wonderful pick of more affordable old world favourites. I requested something red and light to go with our dishes, and instead of going down the tried and tested Beaujolais route, our sommelier chose a superb 2008 Les Amis de la Bouissière (€28). This was an excellent find that rendered a fine imitation of a much larger and far more expensive Gigondas.

My companion had the loin of rabbit, gnocchi, ratatouille and whole mustard sauce for his main course. The rabbit was ethereally exalted by the well-balanced mustard sauce, but the gnocchi were quite dry and the ratatouille a little exhausted looking. My John Dory with spinach, leeks, clams and mussels in a shellfish broth (€28) was marvellous. I would have preferred the Dory steamed or poached, rather than fried, but this was still a wonderful piece of fish in an otherwise perfect dish.

Desserts were a pucker-inducing lemon tart with blood orange and a ginger sorbet (€8.50), and a technically flawless passionfruit soufflé (€8.50).

I believe Dax will be expanding soon to fill the first floor of the building whose basement it currently occupies. Meisonnave says that it will be a cafe bar, opening under the Dax brand, serving breakfast and lunch during the day and small bites with wine at night. I think this will really add to the Dax experience, and small foibles aside, I recommend a visit.

Dinner for two, including wine, aperitifs, water and a 12.5% service charge, came to €168.75.